Finally, I got to take a break from the mundane day to day life for a three day, two night get away to Oceanside, California.  I’ve driven  through Oceanside literally a hundred times on my way back and forth from San Diego but have never really stopped to enjoy this seaside community or explore what it had to offer.  Suprisingly there was a lot to do filled with rich history and off beat attractions.  Of course I always love the off beat, road less traveled mixed with a little history so I’ll cover some of the highlights.

Oceanside
To begin with, Oceanside was the “epicenter” of my destination and where I spent my several nights.  Oceanside is at the southern end of the Marine Base Camp Pendleton.

Oceanside's first inhabitants were the Luiseno Indians who were part of the large Shoshonean tribe. They inhabited the San Luis Rey river valley area, originally named, "Rio San Luis Rey de Francia," after St. Louis King of France by the Franciscan friars who passed through the valley in 1769. The Mission San Luis Rey de Francia was established in 1798, four miles up river from the coast. The Indians who were gathered at the Mission were called "San Luisenos" by the Franciscans, later shortened to "Luisenos". The Luisenos were hunters and food gatherers until the friars taught them farming and other trades. The Indians were instrumental in building the Mission compound as they provided the labor. The Indians soon adopted the Spanish language and customs.

Among these padres was Father Antonio Peyri who planned and oversaw the construction of the Mission's many buildings which included three churches, the last of which still stands and was finished in 0ctober of 1815. Mission San Luis Rey was the largest building in California when completed and was the most prosperous of the missions

In 1834, formal secularization took place. All the Mission properties were confiscated by Pio Pico, governor of California, and sold for $2,437.50. During this period, the Mission buildings fell into disrepair. In 1893, Father Joseph Jeremiah 0'Keefe arrived to restore the Mission. By 1912, when he retired, restoration in great part was complete, but, still continues today.

A township, known as San Luis Rey, which was west of the Mission, was established in the early 1870's and was largely inhabited by a group of English settlers, by 1884, San Luis Rey had a post office, stores, a hotel, and a weekly newspaper, The San Luis Rey Star, which later moved to Oceanside.

In 1881 the United States Government conducted a survey of the Southern Pacific slope and in 1882 a railroad was laid from Los Angeles to San Diego through Colton, Temecula, Fallbrook and down the coast.
Andrew Jackson Myers relocated to the San Luis Rey township in 1881. In 1883, he applied for a Homestead Grant on the Oceanside mesa and he was allotted 160 acres. Cave J. Couts, Jr. surveyed the town site and J. Chauncey Hayes sold the town lots. Myers is known as the founder of Oceanside as he owned the first land and was said to built the first house.

J. Chauncey Hayes was not only the real estate agent but Justice of Peace and the editor of his own newspaper, The South Oceanside Diamond.

By 1887, the Bank of Oceanside was built on the comer of Second (Mission Avenue) and Hill Streets and also a grand hotel, the South Pacific, located on Third and Pacific Streets, near the present pier.
A wharf company was formed and soundings were made at the location of what is now known as Wisconsin street. The wharf was made entirely of wooden pilings, the first pile being driven May 12, 1888. On July 3, 1888, Oceanside was incorporated with a vote of 74 to 53. The founder of the city, A. J. Myers, was the first to vote. The population was about l000.

In the winter of 1890-91, the wharf was destroyed by a storm and Melchoir Pieper, the proprietor of the South Pacific Hotel, salvaged most of the lumber. He took the pilings to his hotel on Third Street where he kept it until the city appropriated funds for a new pier in 1893. Not only donating the lumber, through his efforts, Pieper was responsible for the pier being located at Third Street. This second pier was the first of five built at the Third street location, including the one recently completed in 1987.

In the 1890's Oceanside had three hotels; the South Pacific, the St. Cloud and the Tremont, two drug stores, two livery stables, two blacksmiths, a hardware store, a bakery, a harness shop, a lumber yard, a barber shop, a newspaper, a school and the Oceanside Bank along with many other businesses. There were six churches: Christian, Congregational, Baptist, Episcopal, Holiness and Methodist.

Like many towns, Oceanside's prosperity relied much on real estate booms and busts.  The railroads played an important role in the continuing development of our city. During the boom years the trains brought thousands of prospective buyers. This continued until a highway was paved between San Diego and Los Angeles through 0ceansidc before 1920. In the 1920's the city prospered. Tent City was established, street lights were installed, a new golf course was laid out and a grand new theater, "The Palomar', was built. Many noteworthy visitors enjoyed this shore, including Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks. A number of movies were filmed here during this decade. This prosperity soon changed and felt the grip of the "Great Depression."

A dramatic change occurred with the purchase of the Santa Margarita y Los Flores by the U. S. Government for a military base. The building of Camp Joseph H. Pendleton created a boom to end all booms in the sleepy little town. In no time workers flocked to downtown for food and lodging. It was common to see thirty or forty people waiting outside restaurants to eat. The community geared up for war in a big way by supporting the workers and troops.  Ocenaside continued to urbanize into the 1950's bringing it to a population of 20,000 in 1953. The growth has continued steadily ever since is now over 150,000 people.

Mission San Luis Rey
I’ve been to all 21 missions and returned to this “King of the Missions”.  San Luis Rey de Francia, "King of Missions," was the eighteenth of the Franciscan establishments in California; and the second founded in what is now the County of San Diego-second therefore on El Camino Real. In respect of artistry, grandeur and general prosperity it long stood preeminent. Even today the refinement and wide culture of its founder, Fr. Lasuen, and of its first superior, Fr. Antonio Peyri, seem to pervade corridor, patio, garden and churchyard. One feels that very rare souls built and by their lives forever blessed this great spiritual enterprise.

Fifty-four Indians were baptized June 13, 1798, the day Mission San Luis Rey site was dedicated. In July a thousand adobe bricks were ready for the first permanent structure. The church was Of adobe, faced with burnt brick, 30 feet by 189 feet, roofed with "tile of clay." The mortuary chapel was unique among the early churches.

In 1818 San Luis Rey with its six mission ranches, Pala, Santa Margarita, San Jacinto, Santa Ysabel, Temecula and San Pedro, was at the height of its prosperity; the richest, the most populous of all such establishments in California.

Strife engendered by Mexican innovations warned Fr. Peyri, who at sixty-seven years of age, was still in charge, that with secularization the missions would be ruined. Discouraged, he retired; sailing from San Diego on the Pocahontas January 17, 1832. Luisenos demonstrated their affection for him by following down to the bay shore, two even swimming out to the ship and sailing away, forever lost to their former homes.

At San Luis Rey, as at Mission San Diego, American troops, including a part of the Mormon battalion, were quartered at the close of the Mexican war; animals having been stabled in the very church.

Before he went away Fr. Peyri planted certain seeds which had been given him by a sailor who could explain only that they came from South America. They sprouted vigorously and after being transplanted grew quickly into tall saplings - the first "pepper" (schinus molle) trees in California. A row stood outside the cloister at San Luis Rey, but were destroyed by mules and horses. One single tree of Father Peyri's planting still grows in the west enclosure, a part of the old garden, a real pioneer among California trees. After the withdrawal of the troops San Luis Rey fell into decay; the little village of the same name, famous for "poker bets and large drinks," grew up nearby. In 1931 restoration of the mission buildings was begun, with the result that they are today, in charge again of Franciscans, among the finest remaining examoples of early mission architecture. The two gargoyle fountains, unearthed in a neighboring swamp, have been pronounced the only specimens of western Indian sculpture.

Heritage Park

Nestled right behind the Mission San Luis Rey is one of Oceanside’s best-kept secrets; so well-kept that many visitors happen upon it only by taking a wrong turn on the way to the Mission.

Heritage Park was constructed in 1976 as a tribute to the memory of Oceanside’s history and is home to many of the city’s original buildings. The old Blade building the first home of the Oceanside newspaper (which became the Blade Tribune, the Blade Citizen, and then merged with the North County Times), is still equipped with a printing press from the 1800s. On the weekends, and upon request, the fully functioning newsroom can be fired up for a demonstration.

Also located in the park is the original Libby School as it appeared when it was last used in 1893. The school is furnished with relics of a 19th century classroom, along with pictures of the graduating classes from that time period.

Both the Blade building and the Libby School were literally picked up and moved from their original locations in downtown Oceanside and on Douglas Street, respectively.
Additionally, Heritage Park includes the 1886 Johansen building, which features period-specific clothing and furniture, a saloon complete with a fully costumed saloon-keeper, a concrete jail with a cell and sheriff clad in a complete uniform: spurs, gun, and a 10-gallon hat. Ice creak sundaes and soda can be found for a dollar each at the park’s Soda Bar.

Heritage Park Village and Museum, situated at 220 Peyru Road, just off El Camino Real, originally was a highway stop en route to Los Angeles from San Diego. The general store, blacksmith, and doctor’s buildings are all facades set against the original repair shops and are made to look like the Oceanside of the late 1800s.

Along with the Blade building, Libby School, and Johansen buildings, visitors can get a real feel for the city’s history as they walk through the park.

Heritage Park is free and open to the public from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. The buildings are open for tours on Sundays from 1 to 3 p.m. and by request.

Café 101

I love old highways. Of course, Route 66 is the most famous of them all.  But Highway 101 is a beautiful drive along the California Coast from San Diego to San Francisco.  But many portions of the old highway have given way to the interstate.  But in Oceanside, the old Hwy 101 still remains and a corner café capture the era of a time gone by. 

The 101 Cafe began its life as a small 20-seat diner in 1928, opened by the Ekegren family. It was just the small dining room where the counters are now. As today, the restaurant was noted for its breakfast, which is still served all day. The Cafe was named for the old highway which it fronted Highway 101. The Greyhound bus stopped right in front until the 1940's when a bus station was located downtown. The diner enjoyed the traffic generated by Highway 101, which was the main access from Los Angeles to San Diego until 1953 when Highway 101 was relocated to the present location of Interstate 5. This changed the nature of the business.

During this time a local businessman had the foresight to adapt to the change. Lucky Lackey, the businessman, added the overhang around the building as it now exists. He found a successful restaurateur in John "Bushie" Graham to operate the latest in eateries, a drive-in called "Grahams" and ran it quite successfully until the early 1970's. Graham also ran two other drive-ins in Oceanside, located at Seventh and Hill Streets and Clementine and Mission Avenue. Grahams' reputation as a hot spot for local teenagers spread far and wide. When the new drive-throughs like McDonald's began to rise to prominence, drive-ins no longer prospered. Graham adapted by selling to-go items and changed the format to a coffee shop
All along, the Cafe has been a favorite of locals and tourists looking for friendly service and great food. About 10 years later, a new owner changed the name to Randy's Coffee Shop.  The café was then changed back to the original name and is the oldest resturaunt in town.

Self Realization Fellowship, Encinitas

My last day, I ventured a few miles south of Oceanside pass Carlsbad to another quaint seaside community named Encinitas.  In Encinitas is the Self Realization Fellowship which I had heard about and wanted to explore in my constant quest for philosophy, religion, and spirituality.  Aside from that, it was an opportunity to get off the busy I-5 I usually take in transit to San Diego and tour along the old Route 101.

The tall white walls and landmark golden lotus domes that guard the Self-Realization Fellowship's property make it seem it exotic, forbidding and exclusive. But behind them is a paradise that embraces all.
Anyone can go inside the expansive meditation garden, walk to the edge of the bluff and watch migrating whales spout and white-capped surf fold toward shore.

Close by, birds sing and colorful koi rest at the bottom of ponds surrounded by lush flowers, plants and trees.

Many people don't know about the garden. Even fewer understand the teachings of the fellowship's founder, Paramahansa Yogananda, who developed 17 acres into the main compound 70 years ago.
Yet the influence of the Self-Realization Fellowship Temple and Ashram Center looms large in coastal North County.

It is an integral part of Encinitas' identity, and has a world-famous surfing spot, Swami's, named after it, taken from Yogananda's membership in the Swami Order.

The fellowship is one of the biggest landowners in the city, with about 35 acres of prime coastal real estate that extend from the domes at South Coast Highway 101 and K Street north to West J Street and east to Summit Avenue.

Although the Encinitas temple is familiar to most county residents, its religious activities and monks and nuns are largely shielded from the public.

Paramahansa Yogananda was born in 1893 to a prosperous Bengali family in Gorakhpur, India. After becoming a Hindu monk, he founded the Self-Realization Fellowship in 1920 to spread ideas about yoga and meditation.

When he came to Encinitas in 1937, he fell in love with the point where the main compound is today and built on it, Mridani said. While living there, Yogananda wrote “Autobiography of a Yogi,” published in 1946.
Over the years, the fellowship acquired property nearby. Today, it has a temple and a bookstore on Second Street. The bookstore will move to a larger space the fellowship bought at South Coast Highway 101 and K Street, the former home of an auto parts store.

East of the train tracks, the fellowship owns a pumpkin patch and a produce garden roughly bordered by Vulcan Avenue, Santa Fe Drive, Summit and San Elijo avenues. The monks and nuns are vegetarians.
Yogananda died in March 1952, or as his adherents describe it, “entered mahasamadhi, a God-illumined master's conscious exit from the body.” His fellowship has grown to 500 temples, retreats and meditation centers in more than 50 countries.

The Encinitas fellowship is also planning to grow. Mridani said they are working on a master plan for expansion and intend to build a larger retreat and a new temple.

And that brought me to an end on my adventure to Oceanside and the Old Route 101!  I’ll never drive to San Diego with a reminder of this charming seaside village turned city