Hello...I made it...I am now at the tip of the world....the furthest city south on the planet without going to Antartica..Ushuaia!!  I just found out that Antarctica is only 620 miles from here.  Im kind of bummed I am not going all the way...but its an additional couple thousand dollars to get a boat from here to get there...perhaps someday.

Well, after I wrote last night....I went out and finally had a typical Argentine dinner...STEAK. I got an awesome steak and fries for a cheap price and the meat was so juicy and tender!!  I then went back to the hostel and hung out with some of the other travellers for quite a while...I was up later than I expected.  They asked me to go out with them but it was already 11 pm and I had an early flight.   They went out and I went and packed and finally got bed about midnight.

The alarm woke me up at 4:30 AM...I quickly got ready and my taxi got there at 5:30. I got to the airport which was super busy and I kind of got lost because there were 3 terminals and there were international and domestic areas so I had to keep asking "Adonde Voy"...where do I go?  I got all checked in and then the security line was super long.  Theres only 2 flights per week to Tierra Del Fuego...so it was very crowded.  We all had to walk out on the tarmack to board the plane.   The flight was only 4 hours long but it was hotter than hell on the plane and it just seemed like the longest flight ever.

Prior to leaving the states I found out that it is common for local families to rent out a room which they call bed and breakfast.  Its not like the fancy B& B in the states...essentially a family hosts you for a small fee and makes you breakfast.  I had coordinated a place which would pick me up at the airport.  The flight into Ushuaia was incredible..flying over the Andes, the snow capped mountains and the ocean all around. The Beagle Channel runs through Ushuaia (named after Darwins Boat that first explore the area). Chile is on one side and Argentina on the other.  The airstrip is right on the water so it looks like you are about to crash into the ocean.  We landed and for some reason I had to go through customs??  not sure why since it was a domestic flight. 

On the other side waited for me...Maria Candela Piati de Duarte....a short heavy lady that only spoke spanish holdin a sing that said Keith.  She is the host...only speaks spanish.  She was going on and on so much I had a headache...but she is very lovely and funny but she doesnt stop talking!!!  My spanish is ok...but I have to really pay attention and she was going on about her children, Shakira, dancing, the weather, etc.  The interesting thing is that her and her husband are both born and raised here.  She drove me through town and to their home.  Very nice home and not only do I have a private room but for the first time in a week I have a private toilet and private shower.  No communal stuff for the next few night.  Granted I havent seen if it has hot water...but it is nice to have some privacy. 

I went for a walk...but the weather here is volatile...when I landed it was 65 and sunny...a little later it was drizzly, windy and cold.  Then it got sunny.  Now it is freezing out but the sun is out until almost 10:30 at night.   The clouds streak acrros the mountains surrounding ushaias snow capped peaks.  The view from my room is the Andes and some glaciers and the harbor. Its incredible.  Words cannot describe it.  It really does feel like wild territory.  But there are a million tourists here!!!  I stopped and had lunch and took a photo at the "fin del Mundo sign¨"   I went back to my room and rested for a while....I felt really tired and run down and dishevled.  I sort of dozed off and on.

I then went back out for Churros and cafe con leche and gave mom a call to check in on her.  All is well with her and our friend Yvonne is taking good care of her for which I am grateful!  I am here for three full days...the weather is supposed to best tomorrow....but still volatile so I booked my excursion tomorrow which I can hardly wait...a boat ride through the Beagle Channel going to various islands and to visit the Penguin Colony....I think they are Magellan Penguins and some others, as well as albatross, and different kinds of animals.   We then dock at an Estancia...not sure what that is...and then get on a bus up into the andes and the glaciers and see the husky dog sleds....though the season is over because it is now spring.  So it is a long excursion tomorrow but one I have really wanted to do.  The next day I will explore the historic town of Ushuaia and hopefully get to the National Park for some hiking.  Plus there is an old prison I want to visit...100 years ago...Argentina used this area like England used Australia..as  a penal colony and sent all the prisoners here.

It is almost unreal to think that I am at the very tip of south america...I remember as a child reading about the explorers Magellan, De Anza, Cortez, Cabrillo, they all reached California...by passing this very tip, Cape Horn.  Incredible.   The scenery and the weather are unlike any other region I have every travelled to.  I am so happy and so grateful I nearly tear up when I think that I am here and that I have this opportunity.  And I also realize that when you have dreams...you need to take action and make them a reality...it is possible in spite of all the odds.

Well, I am about to call it a day early....I sort of have to.  This is not a party hub and there isnt much to do here at night. I actually need to regroup, shower, re'organize my backpack, and get a good nights rest for tomorrows trek!!!  I hope I see Penguins....supposedly they are still there...

Well....take care and until tomorrow night...hugs and love from the tip of the world...tierra del fuego...fin del mundo!

After I last wrote yesterday evening...I went for a walk.  Words cannot describe the city of Buenos Aires...it is massive, vibrant, ecclectic and filled with hustle and bustle and it is a night time town.  I grabbed a bit to eat and then stumbled on a rasta drum circle.  There was so much pot being smoked and people were dancing in the streets to the rhythm of the drums.   Later I stumbled on an outdoor tango show which was really enjoyable to watch. I wish I could tango.  That dance is just so sultry and sexy!  The streets were busy late at night with music flowing in every direction.  I hung out with a few of the guys from my hostel...a guy travelling the world for 6 months from England, a guy from Cuba, and some others...I dont remember.
 
This morning I woke up early...and actually had my famous "to do list"...the bank and the post office.  Unfortunately nothing opens until 10 am...so I went to the subway which always rattles my nerves.  It is a labyrinth maze underground, no matter which city, and usually a million people pushing and shoving while I am trying to figure out where I am going and how much i need to pay and where to pay.  I managed to figure out how to buy a 5 trip pass and get on the right train..packed like sardines, alert to my backpack.  I had to change subways and headed to REcoletta. 
 
Buenos Aires is massive and sprawling and divided into Barrios.  Recoletta is an upscale neighborhood plus has the cemetery that Eve Peron is buried at.  After getting off the subway I had to walk about a mile to the cemetery.  The cemetery was like those in New Orleans..all above ground mausoleums with wonderful architecture.  It was partly in shambles where tombstones had been removed exposing the actual coffins!  It was rather desolate there until I got to Eva Perons grave....a massive line I had to wait in but I got my photos!!  

I then walked around Recoletta and headed toward Barrio Retiro.  There I hopped on another subway and went to the center of town..the widest street in Latin America AVenida 18 de Julio...that is where the famous Obelisk stands.  I then walked to find food and ended up in Corrientes area and micro centro....which I loved but will go back when I return to Buenos Aires next week.  I found a post office to drop off my post cards and then bought some ham and cheese empanadas and sat in the town square in front of the Casa Rosada and ate lunch.   I then tackled the issue of the counterfiet money I got.  I went to the bank and the lady did try to help me...but I was there forever and in the end...the higher ups told me I could write a plea letter to the bank explaining the situation.  I told the lady I didnt have time for all that and her only recommendation was to "try and pass the peso off on someone else".  I debated whether to do that or not...because I didnt want to knowingly pass on a counterfiet note...but at the same time....I didnt know what to do but was scared I would get in trouble.  I thought...I´m going to pass this off...I crumpled the peso note up and got it wet so it looked worn and used and went to a store and bought some stuff and no problems...but now I felt guilty all day about it.  Oh well..Ill do some good deed somewhere along the way to make up for it.
 
I then went to San Telmo Area...which is an up and coming artsy area and antique shops. cobblestone streets, loved it.  By then I was tired and headed back to the hostel and believe it or not took a nap.  Woke up and took a scalding hot shower...it was too hot!!  Now, heading out to dinner and walk around some more.  I will probably call it a night early because I have a flight tomorrow morning...so I need to get up early to go to the airport.   Tomorrow I fulfill one of my dreams....Tierra del Fuego, Fin del Mundo, the end of the world...I am flying another 3000 miles south to the very tip of Argentina...to the city farthest south on the earth without going to Antartica!  Penguins, glaciers, snow await!!
 
Well, i hope this email finds all of you well and know that I am thinking of you all and carrying you in my hearts.

Hello all...I finally made it to ARgentina...my 39th Country.  I have dreamed of visitng Argentina since I was a teenager obsessed with Evita!  Last night I went for a stroll around Colonia and had dinner at a Regggaeton Bar...very good music!  I went to bed rather early (I know..an old man).  I woke up this morning and finally after 5 days got to take a hot shower and hot shave...it felt great.   The place I stayed also had breakfast...so I had yogurt, cereal, coffee, juice, and some bread.  I packed up all my 35 pounds of stuff and walked to the Ferry Terminal. I had to go through customs and immigration which went very smoothly.  Plus there was no fees or taxes leaving the country.  The ferry was unbelievable...it was like a cruise ship with duty free store, eating area, etc and the ride was only an hour.

There was something romantic about¨"sailing" into Buenos Aires rather than just arriving by plane.  To approach the city by boat was wonderful...however, after arriving in Buenos Aires I was glad I started in Montevideo to ease me into the trip because Buenos Aires is crazy fast pace and busy and huge.  It is atually overwhelming.  After I got of the boat I went to the ATM to get some ARgentine Pesos which later would prove to be a drama.  It always hard arriving in a new city and new country...trying to get my bearings, figure out the conversion rate, access local currency and just get a general since of where you are at.  Its unnerving at first.  I hailed a taxi which took me to my hostel...there is some festival going on so I could hardly walk down the street with my backpack and everything.  I was on stimulus overload.

I checked in and met some of the people staying here...two from Switzerland, one from germany, one from Australia, one from Austria. I then headed out by foot to none other than the Casa Rosada.  I so wanted to see the Evita Balcony.  I walked and took pcitures and was so happy to find out there are free tours to go in the Casa Rosada.  So I got to stand on the balcony where she made her speeches!!!  I even have a pciture of me in Evita pose!  The Casa Rosada was gorgeous.  After I went to the cathedral where Evitas funeral mass took place and she laid in state.  By then I was getting a little light headed because I had forgot to eat...so I stopped at a mini market to get a bite to eat and found out that one of the $100 pesos I got from the ATM was counterfiet!!!  I was so pissed...thats about $25 USD.  I will try to see if a bank will help me tomorrow...but I may just have to eat it.  What pisses me off is that I know that scam is usually people try to pass it off on tourists...but this was from an ATM.  I couldnt decide if I should keep exploring or come back for a rest...i decided to rest for a bit.  Buenos Aires is so fast paced and busy its a bit overstimulating for me and I needed to re group before heading back out tonight.  From what I understand...things start opening up including dinner around 10 pm.

Plus I have all day tomorrow to explore the city and I will be back in Buenos Aires my last 3 days...so no need to rush.  but I did want to go to the Casa Rosada.  Also on my list is Eva´s grave at Recolleta Cemetery and the Eva Peron Museum.

I need to go to the ATM and get more (hopefully) real money out...and find a grocery store.  I hope that all is well back home...