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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Friday, 09 November 2007 |
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Hello friends and family...I am currently in Can Tho (pronounced Can Toe)....this was an incredibly exciting day with lots of adventure and an incredible journey which also at times tested my patience. We caught the 8 o clock bus in Saigon and headed south west for the Mekong Delta..the end of the Mekong River...3rd longest in Asia and 11th longest in the world. The drive there was nice...nice big bus through some slum areas which were very heartening. We arrived at My Tho (My Toe) at 11 and transferred onto a boat which took us out into the Delta. We then arrived on an island where honey bees and honey are made...I even held up a honeycomb filled with bees! We then hiked further and held my first Boa Constrictor around my neck...I can hardly wait to show you all that pic! We then were treated by the locals to honey snacks. After that ...we went on a hike through the jungle and along the tributaries for a snack of fresh fruit...papaya, pineapple, sun fruit, and some other stuff....some local Mekong people performed music and song for us while partook of the fresh fruits. WE then continued our hike through the jungle ...
We then came along a narrow tributary of the Mekong where we boarded little narrow row boats that took us deep into delta and the jungle.....the only way to describe it was Disney's Jungle Cruise without the hippos! It was wonderful. The fresh lush tropical plants of palms, morning glories, bamboo and all the other tropical fruits and fauna. I would love to go there at night. After rowing around the jungles and deltas for a while we were taken to another island where we had lunch by local villagers. We met some of our co-tourists...4 from Israel, 4 from Spain, 2 from Norway, and one from Germany....was fun to exchange travel stories. After lunch we continued cruising around the jungle and then went to an island (I can't remember the name) where they made coconut candy...they demonstrated how they made the candy and it was really good...I bought some.
By the way..did I mention its hot and humid here?? I have never drank so much water in my life and I am spending all my souvenir money on water!!! The Mekong Delta was steamy, hot, dripping with sweat. I drink tons of water and still get light headed. After the coconut island we continued to where some of the people live on stilt houses in the Delta and finally ended up back in My Tho.
It was then 4 o clock...unfortunately, our big luxurious bus broke down so we had to cram into a van...It was a bit overwhelming for me....with all the people, luggage, heat, etc. I began to get claustrophobic...I couldn't move and felt I couldn't breath and was crammed in dripping with sweat. We then drove another 2 hours...the whole time thinking...."this is my last backpacking adventure". We then reached a wide part of the Delta and had to get off the bus, walk a mile get on a ferry, cross the delta, then meet back up with the bus and then drive another few miles to Can Tho which is where I am now. I paid the $3 extra dollar for a room with A/C...why someone would be so cheap not to pay the $3 for the added comfort is beyond me! I don't do sleeping and humidity well.
So...it's now 7 pm...Mike is recovering and relaxing...and myself...immediately, I had to go find my internet cafe...I'm such an addict but if I don't write down what I did today...I would forget. The days all start running together.
So soon we will have dinner and then tomorrow we leave at 7 am for the Floating markets in the Mekong Delta before heading up a ways the River to some city..which I cannot remember the name at this point. Fortunately, everyone speaks English here...and I really struggle with the language and pronunciation of words. Tomorrow will be my last day in Vietnam as on Sunday I make the border crossing into Cambodia on a 6 hour boat ride up the river! It amazes me that even in the Mekong Delta you can find an internet cafe.....my how the internet has changed the world of travel.
Oh..one other aside....there are 16,000 Viet Dong to One Dollar...the other day I had to withdraw 1,000,000 Viet Dong....I was a millionaire for a day! Well..only $62!
Well, that is it for today's journeys. I hope all is well back home. Until tomorrow....(hopefully..depedning on internet accessibility)... |
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Last Updated ( Friday, 30 November 2007 )
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Thursday, 08 November 2007 |
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Hello all, Well as is usually the case when I travel it was a truly jammed pack day. I sometimes am amazed at how much I do in a day when I travel and wish I had that same stamina back home in the states.
Well, alas my friend made in yesterday late afternoon and was glad to see him. I had not seen him in about 4 or 5 years when he visited in Los Angeles. We spent the evening walking around Saigon and eventually went out for a late dinner. Got to bed relatively early.
This morning started with waking up at 5:30...after getting ready we started our day long tour which picked us up at the hotel. This is by far the hottest and most humid place I have visited...you move and you sweat leading to rashes and dehydration. After a heroing drive through the city we headed northwest toward the Cambodian border where we went to the Cau Dai Temple...Caudaism is a mix of Buddhism, Christianity, Hinduism, Confucianism, etc. All mixed together. The temple was truly breath taking and we were there in time for the noon service so we go to hear all the chants and prayers...it was very interesting. I also learned the at Caudist wanted to be there own nation and fought against both south and north Vietnam but lost in the end..but there are 2 million caodaists here.
After the tour of the Caodai Temple we had lunch then headed to the Cu Chi Tunnels which I was anxious about visiting because of the closed underground tunnels. It was hear that the mosquitoes really came out...I put on my 100% Deet and started taking my Anti Malaria medication the other day...so I think I'll be ok. No bites yet! WE went through the jungle and saw where many of the bombing took place and where Agent Orange had been used. They had a movie we watched about the history of the tunnels..and was it ever propaganda...it talked about the war, the values of communism, and the enemy "America" The Viet Cong built elaborate tunnels underground with booby traps and torture. It was very sobering to see. One of the tunnels is a bit expanded for 100 meters and you can crawl through it. Every 30 meters is an escape route for people who start to panic. In our group of 12 people only one guy went the 100 meters. My friend went down in the tunnel and immediately retreated. I did go down...and started to panic but was able to make it to the 30 meter emergency exit. I was a bit bummed I couldn't make the whole 100 meters but it is very small, dark, and deep and you have to practically crawl on your stomach to get through. By this time I was dripping with sweat and had to deescalate myself from a major panic attack. We then went over to the firing range and for 100,000 Viet Dong you can shoot an M16 or AK 47. My friend did it but I desperately wanted to do it but to be honest I've never fired a gun and 2) I couldn’t stand the noise...there was no ear protection and it was really rattling my nerves. I probably should have done it but it was fun to watch Michael shoot an AK47. At the end of the tour we had tea and ate tapioca...not the pudding...some "nasty root" that is peeled and boiled. I didn't like it but was polite and ate it.
After the tour we went to a factory that is run by the communist party to give jobs to the handicap painting and lacquering.
It was rather sad to see war torn men and women, teenagers afflicted by Down Syndrome, or missing limbs working in this hot factory and selling there goods. I bought a few items as I felt I was in some way helping these people..I hope but who knows.
The drive back to Saigon was insane and we got back this evening about 7 pm....so Michael is taking a nap, and I'm doing my email thing. Probably go grab a bite to eat and call it a day. Tomorrow we leave for the Mekong Delta...so I'm not sure what the internet situation will be down there. We will be in the delta for 3 days and 2 nights before heading up the delta by boat to Phnom Penh Cambodia...hopefully I'll be able to drop a note before then.
Well, that is today’s adventures...until later..
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Last Updated ( Friday, 30 November 2007 )
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Wednesday, 07 November 2007 |
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Hello all! I hope that life is well. I've never been to a country that is so hot and humid! Unfortunately in all my photos I will have sweat stains...it's unbelievable the humidity here!! Well, I am in my first Communist Country...but you would never guess it...capitalism is alive and well and the downtown part of Saigon (which I will use since Ho Chi Minh city is so long)...is filled with stores like Gucci, D & G, etc.
After I wrote last night...I went to bed about 2 am...and woke up at 6:30 am....After gathering my sense I called my mom to see what happened to my friend from Minneapolis...apparently he got very ill on the flight from Minneapolis to Tokyo and had to stay in Tokyo to recuperate...but he should be here tonight! I hope.
I left about 8 am into a wild surprise of traffic, no lights, 1000s of bikes, and you have to just walk out into the traffic blindly and hope you don't get hit. It's insane...but kind of fun! My first stop was the Reunification Palace which is left exactly the way it was on April 30th, 1975 when Saigon fell to the North Vietnamese army...it was a sobering tour. To be honest, I did not know that much about the history of Vietnam or the war before coming here. Vietnam goes back thousands of years with contact with the Roman in 166 AD. But then for 1000 years it was ruled by China and in the late 1800's became a French colony until the Revolution and ultimate take over by Ho Chi Minh and the communist party. Saigon was the last to fall and I even went on the roof of the palace where helicopters were evacuating the last refugees. After touring the palace I walked over to Notre Dame Cathedral...built in 1885 by the French. Beautiful..but kind of funny as they had neon lights around the statues...it looked like a red light district with holy icons! I then went to the Post Office which is gorgeous architecture. I then stopped to have a coffee...it was so hot an ice mocha sounded good...after I was done I thought uh oh...I just had ice. Oh well..we shall see. I then walked through the downtown district and to the oldest Mosque in Saigon though I couldn't enter because I was not dressed appropriately (shorts and tank top). I then walked down to the Saigon river. After that I went shopping at the Ben Taht Market which was amazing. Crowded, crazy, hot, humid,....people were literally pulling me to come into their stalls.
I did buy some stuff and then stopped for a late lunch...deep fried pork and rice. I get so nervous about stomach problems..but I figured deep fried will kill any bacteria. I then went to the Revolution Plaza and the War Remnants Park which had tanks, helicopters, etc. Again, like on my other tours of war, battle fields, death and destruction...it makes you wonder what was the point..
Everywhere I've went I meet such friendly people...many of the Vietnamese girls want to take a picture with me...which I oblige! Even sitting in the park people come up and I think they want something..but they simply want to talk to me about the US, their daughter goes to UCLA, their son works in computers, etc. Its so unlike the US where no one talks to anyone..especially strangers.
So...now it is late afternoon...I'm going to go buy some snacks and waters (the room has a fridge!)..write out some postcards and wait for my friend Michael to arrive. I bummed that he missed so much today...but when I travel...I go..go..go. I am thinking tomorrow I may go tot he cu chi tunnels from the war. The prices here are unbelievable. I just had a nice lunch for $3! Everything is super cheap...so cheap that I get carried away buying this or that.
Health wise...everything is ok...no anxiety, no arrhythmias, and no "travel diseases"....the worst of my casualties is a blister!
And incidentally for those keeping track...Vietnam is my "Silver Mark"...it's the 25th Country I've been to...so I'm 1/4 of the way to my goal! Well, I hope all is well with you. It's so nice to end my days and feel connected to those back home that I miss...even though I'm 9,000 miles away..you are all just a "click" away.
So until the next adventure! |
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Last Updated ( Friday, 30 November 2007 )
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Tuesday, 06 November 2007 |
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Hello all...I am currently in Hong Kong...it's 7:41 pm here....in Los Angeles like 4:40 am!! The worst is over. This was a 15 1/2 hours straight through. No major anxiety or panic and I didn't even use my nicotine patch! though I was dying for one when I got to Hong Kong and they do allow smoking in the terminal....nice terminal with free internet!! So I thought I would have a smoke, email, and then catch my flight in one hour ....the next flight is to Saigon...but is is only a 2 hour flight so that is a piece of cake.
Everything has gone smoothly thus far....check in at LAX was less than 5 minutes and I was so lucky with my seat...no one sat next to me. Still cramped but I could spread out a little. I have to admit...this was one hell of a long flight I am so glad that is over with. I did get anxious at one point and did self talk, deep breathing and calmed down.
Though as long as the flight was...it wasn't as bad as I expected. I may try to email when I get to Saigon tonight...but may have to wait until tomorrow when I'm a little more with it and acclimated. It seems so odd to have been in Los Angeles...and now in Hong Kong...my first time crossing the pacific. |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Tuesday, 06 November 2007 |
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Its1:15 here and I'm at the hotel....need to be fast. My flight from Hong Kong got to Saigon 1/2 early and the hotel was ready to pick me up. I waited for 3 hours for my friend from Minneapolis...he never showed up. I don't know where he is or what happened. But I'm at the hotel safe...it's dark..and all I could see driving here were 1000s of mopeds and bicycles. I hope my friend gets here tomorrow....
I hope to get a good night sleep and start exploring tomorrow. Take care..just checking in to let you know I am here! |
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Last Updated ( Friday, 30 November 2007 )
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Monday, 05 November 2007 |
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Well my friends and family...we are about to embark on our next journey! Welcome to the new people in this email group! ..It's Monday, November 5th and I leave in about 2 ½ for the airport via the public bus. I can't believe I bought this plane ticket on March 5th this year only a week after my angiogram!
I'm filled with excitement and a little bit of fear. This trip has been a bit overwhelming for me at times. This is truly a new adventure...new language, religions, cultures, etc and will prove to be very interesting As nerve wracking and overwhelming as it feels...I am so grateful to be going on this trip. There is always so much to learn and see, new people to meet, peoples paths that you cross never to see again, and of course all of the spiritual lessons I learn on these trips...like one day at a time, seeing the bigger picture of life, trusting in the universe, feelings of gratefulness and thanksgiving and feeling the interconnectedness of all people. I am all packed (35 pounds in my backpack) and ready to live out of a backpack for 3 weeks. As most of you know I am a member of hospitality club http://hospitalityclub.org and will hopefully be relying on some of those people for accommodations and to meet for dinner or coffee. But it is all very tentative which adds to the thrill of it. As most of you know, I try to send out updates along the road with antidotes, historical notes, places I've visited and people I've encountered.
The days leading up to these trips are always nerve wracking and somewhat emotional as I find it a time of new starts, reflection, hope, missed opportunities. As I get ready I think of people I have met on other trips and I think of the many hills and valleys in my personal life the last 4 years-the loss of my father, my own health concerns, and other life issues that have arose. Part of the reason I travel around this time is it's my sobriety date on November 15th.God willing I will have 11 years of sobriety and my travels are a way of celebrating my new life and seizing the opportunity to experience the things I missed for so many years in a drunken stupor. In the last few months I have been suffering from anxiety/panic attacks which has been very difficult for me and has added to my anxiety about this trip. At times the panic attacks have been so intense I have contemplated canceling the trip. But as with many things in life, I feel I must walk through it.forge through it.or if I allow things like that to keep me from doing stuff, it isn't much of a life worth living. To paraphrase Thoreau I do not want to get old and near death and realize that I had not lived life.
My first hurdle is my flight.I leave LAX and fly for 15 ½ hours (my longest flight ever) to Hong Kong where I then will catch a flight to Ho chi Minh City (Saigon). I will arrive in Saigon at 10:20 on Tuesday night.so you may not hear from me for a while. In Saigon, I will meet up with my friend Michael from Minneapolis who will be traveling with me in Vietnam and Cambodia where we will part separate ways and I will go on alone to Thailand, Malaysia, and Singapore. I desperately want to get this initial flight over with.
The tentative schedule is we will spend a few days in Saigon then tour the Mekong Delta. WE will then head up by bus/boat to Phnom Penh, Cambodia for 2 days. Then to Siem Reap and to visit my highlight Angkor Wat!! We will be there for 3 days. From there we will separate and I will fly to Bangkok for a few days. Then hop a flight to the Malaysian Island of Penang. I will then journey by bus to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia where I must see the Petronas Towers and the Batu Caves! The last leg of the journey will be a bus ride to Singapore.
I will do my best to email updates along the way. Know that if you are on this email list you have encouraged or inspired me in some way and a part of you is with me on this trip. Though I am 9,000 miles away from "homebase"..you will all be in my heart during this adventure. |
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