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San Gabriel Mission and Historic Mission District PDF Print E-mail
Written by Keith Rhoades   
Sunday, 10 June 2007

My original destination today was Mission San Gabriel, nine miles east of downtown Los Angeles and one of the twenty one missions in California. However, a day trip to one of the missions turned out to be much more. I found out that the mission is located within the Historic Mission District of San Gabriel which includes a historical walk containing numerous historical buildings and points of interest.

The rich history of the City of San Gabriel dates back to 1771 with the founding of the Mission San Gabriel Archangel and establishes San Gabriel as the birthplace of the Los Angeles region. The Mission San Gabriel Arcangel, "Pride of the California Missions," founded by Father Junipero Serra in 1771, is the fourth of twenty-one California Missions, and has long been a center for culture and art. As the original and oldest settlement north of San Diego and south of San Luis Obispo, it is from San Gabriel that the City of Los Angeles and the greater metropolitan area were established.

Diversity is not new to San Gabriel. From its earliest days, the City of San Gabriel has been a place for people of different cultures, beliefs and values to come together. The community was created when Father Junipero Serra, a Spanish priest, and the Tongva (Gabrielino) Indians came together to build a magnificent Mission in 1771. It is located in the mid-west portion of the City within the City's historic core, which contains several other historic buildings and sites exhibiting Spanish, Native American and early American history. Since its founding, San Gabriel has opened its doors to people of all races and cultures.

This longevity and rich history has allowed the city to grow with pride, vision and imagination. By 1852 after American occupation, San Gabriel became one of the first townships in the County of Los Angeles. When the 1860 census was taken, there were only 586 persons listed. The city was incorporated as a general law city on April 24, 1913 with a population of 1,500.

The walking tour of the historic mission district began at Smith Park near the mission. Here, in the vicinity of this park and the Mission San Gabriel, stood the Gabrielino-Tongva town of Sibangna, a community of perhaps 150 or more men,women and children .The Gabrielino-Tongva were the indigenous people occupying present-day Los Angeles County and Orange County. Among the most sophisticated, complex and wealthiest people of Southern California, they included more than 5,000 people inhabiting towns and settlements from the foothills to the coast, and beyond to Catalina and the Channel Islands.

During the 1700s and 1800s, many Gabrielino-Tongva were incorporated into mission life. The decline of traditional towns and loss of hunting and gathering areas, forced the Gabrielino-Tongva to abandon their lifestyle and seek work throughout the region .The early infrastructure of the Los Angeles region  including the missions was built with their labor. Despite the dramatic changes in their lifestyle and culture, the Gabrielino-Tongva never left their homeland. They have always been here. The park is dedicated to the Gabrielino-Tongva and their descendents living in the San Gabriel Valley. CITY HALL-The next stop along the historic walk is the site of the present City Hall was donated to the City in 1922 by Walter P. Temple. His father, Francis Pliny Fiske Temple, traveled by ship “ A round the Horn” to California in 1841 to join his brother who had opened the first mercantile store in Los Angeles. Francis later married Margarita Workman. Her father, William Workman , organized with James Rowland the first wagon train to Southern California over the Santa Fe Trail, arriving in 1841.The Temple-Workman families were involved in much of the history and development of this area ,including the founding of Temple City and donation of land for public use in many of the nearby towns. The millstone near the City Hall steps commemorates the Chapman Mill, built nearby in 1823 by Joseph Chapman , a New Englander captured first by pirates and then by the Spanish in California. His skill at building dams and mills was invaluable to the Fathers here and at other Missions.

ARCADE SHOPS-Nestled up against the City Hall are the arcade shops. Built as the Temple Block, the arcades now shelter interesting shops and businesses. The corner building was the San Gabriel Post Office in the 1920’s . A plaque commemorating the July 30, 1994 dedication of the Mission District Project is located in front of the Arcade Plaza. Near the Fine Arts Association on Mission Drive is the Ramona Museum of California History.The museum offers an eclectic collection of early California artifacts and memorabilia. OLD GRAPEVINE—Kitty corner from the Aracade Shops is the Old Grapevine which was at one time a hotel and vineyard. The façade of the Old Grapevine now looks like ruins of a mission and is once again abandoned. The Old Grapevine holds a small segment of the original vine whose trellised branches once cove red 10,000 square feet . It was a popular local gathering place where refreshments were served under the vine. Started as a cutting from the “Mother Vine” at the Mission, many local vineyards began from cuttings of this vine.The San Gabriel Winery was among the world’s largest in the late 1800’s , until a blight wiped out the vineyards and oranges became the main agricultural crop of the area .Today the park is once again a popular place for weddings ,parties and social gatherings. In addition there is the Grapevine Room. The Grapevine Room was built in recent years on the site of the old Grapevine Inn, often referred to as the “ birthplace of Ramona” because Helen Hunt Jackson began writing her famous book about the California Indians while staying at the hotel. She used the name of a local resident, Ramona Shorb (cousin of General George S. Patton ,J r.), for the name of her heroine.

The MISSION PLAYHOUSE-A short ½ block walk up from the Old Vineyard is The Mission Playhouse, now the San Gabriel Civic Auditorium, was built by John Steven McGroarty to present his epic “ Mission Play” when it outgrew its original building in Plaza Park. The play told the story of the California Missions and the lives of the people around them. Beginning in 1912, it drew people from all over the world to San Gabriel for 20 years and 3,500 performances. The new playhouse was completed for the 1927 season, with stage and dressing rooms large enough to accommodate the cast of 150 for the 4 1/2 hour production .The exterior is patterned after the Mission San Antonio De Padua and the interior décor is a blend of Spanish, Indian and Mexican influences. In the courtyard on the north side are replicas of all 21 California Missions. The Playhouse was acquired by the City in 1945, fulfilling McGroarty’s wish that it belong forever to the people. He went on to become a two-term Congressman, and was Poet Laureate of California from 1933 until his death in 1944 . The theater is now a modern facility that is the home of many current arts, music, and theater performances.SALCIDO STORE-A half block futher up the street from the Civic Auditorium is what used to be the Salcido Store, now the San Gabriel Parks & Recreation Dept., this building dates from 1915 and was the only General Store for miles around. The Salcido Store served residents of the area with basic necessities – farm implements, clothing, and bags and bushels of foodstuffs. Later, the building was used as a blacksmith’s shop with an outdoor forge. In the 1950’s it was a Municipal Court building. While much altered , the original cast stone construction is still visible on the south and east walls.

HISTORICAL ASSOCIATION MUSEUM, HAYES HOUSE AND OLD JAIL Directly behind the Civic Auditorium and Salcido Store is an old house that houses the historical association, museum and old jail. The Historical Association houses a collection of pictures and other research materials, as well as many artifacts which illustrate life in San Gabriel through its long history. This small Victorian House built in 1887 by George Findley Bovard (later Chancellor of USC) was purchased in 1893 by Milton Scott Wilson, whose family lived in it for the next 97 years. Wilson was Justice of the Peace for San Gabriel Township so many weddings took place in the parlor. In 1904, his daughter, Mary Letitia, married Edwin Hayes , who was the Agent at the Southern Pacific Depot until his retirement in 1941. He was also a member of the first City Council in 1913.Their daughter, Mary Ruth Hayes (1907-1990), was born in this house and lived here all her life. She was a teacher and later District Library and Audio-Visual Coordinator in the San Gabriel School District . Her will left the house and its contents to the Historical Association.

The home reflects the lives of one family in San Gabriel for nearly 100 years. The jail is/was a small stone milk house on the Wilson-Hayes property was used as the jail when Saturday night in the taverns along Mission Drive got too wild and arrests were made by Judge Wilson’s son, Deputy Sheriff George Lee Wilson . Prisoners were held here until they could be taken in to the Los Angeles County Jail on Monday morning.

After visiting these numerous historical buildings and sites, I continued back along the historic walk to my primary destination which was the Mission San Gabriel and Mission Plaza.

Located in front of the Old Mission San Gabriel is a park. In the center of the park is the Bicentennial Fountain built in 1976 to celebrate our nation’s 200th birthday.

The Juan Bautista De Anza National Historic Trail comes through San Gabriel. I’ve been on other portions of the De Anza Trail which dates back to 1774, an exploratory trip through uncharted wilderness to discover a land route from Sonora, Mexico, to California. The plaque next to the South entrance door to the Mission marks the famous 1776 trek bringing over 200 settlers, the first to come overland from Sonora, who went on to found the City of San Francisco. The two most distinct features of the Mission can be seen from the park. The outside stairway leads to the choir loft. The Bell Tower holds six bells with long and interesting histories. After a little research with a docent, I learned the following history of the bells of the mission:

Top Bell: Cast by G. H olbrook of Massachusetts, an apprentice of Paul Revere.Center row, left: The gift of a Russian sea Captain, cast in Russia.

Center row, center: also cast by G. Holbrook

Center row, right : An “Ave Maria” bell cast in Spain

Bottom row, left: La Gorda , was ordered from Mexico in 1830. A request was filed at the time of the order asking that the bell be loud enough to be heard for nine miles, thus reminding Los Angeles of a borrowed bell which they had not returned. The bell was returned in 1930.

Bottom row, right: Second of the “ Ave Maria” bells.

After exploring the exterior of the Mission I continued on into the mission and explored this historical site from inside.

In 1771, there were two missions in California - at San Diego and Carmel, well over 400 miles apart. When more Franciscan missionaries arrived at Father Serra's headquarters that year, he decided to build more missions to close the gaps. In the summer of 1771, two more missions were established: San Antonio de Padua and San Gabriel Mission.

San Gabriel Mission, named for the Arcangel Gabriel, was founded on September 8, 1771 by Fathers Pedro Cambon and Angel Somera. It was the fourth in a chain of 21. The original plan was to place it on the Santa Ana River, but when the founders arrived, they went further inland to found the mission near the San Gabriel River.

Legend claims that the native chiefs tried to prevent the fathers from building. The fathers, afraid of a bloody battle, showed the chiefs a painting of Our Lady of Sorrows and the chiefs immediately threw down their bows and arrows

The Indians were friendly in the beginning and helped with the building. Baptisms began immediately after the founding. However, relationships with the Indians turned bad because of the soldiers. One of the soldiers attacked a chieftain's wife and killed her husband when he objected. Fortunately, the fathers acted quickly and had the guilty soldier sent to another station.

In 1774, Juan Bautista de Anza arrived from Mexico City, establishing a land route that placed San Gabriel Mission near a busy crossroads. Its location made it one of the most important missions. In 1775, the fathers found a better site closer to the mountains and it was moved. In 1776, Fathers Sanchez and Cruzado took over the mission. They ran it for the next thirty years. They began church construction in 1779.

In 1781, two fathers, several Indians and eleven families left and traveled nine miles west to form El Pueblo de Nuestra la Reina del Los Angeles (The City of our Lady Queen of the Angels), the present city of Los Angeles.

After Mexico won independence from Spain, the missions were secularized. Originally, the lands were supposed to be transferred to the natives, but in the end most of the land fell into the hands of dishonest politicians and their friends, and the place was turned over to a civil administrator in 1834. Within ten years, the San Gabriel Mission was stripped of all its valuables. Pio Pico tried to sell the mission to a friend, but he was stopped when United States soldiers arrived. In 1862, Congress returned the land to the Catholic church.

San Gabriel Mission was used as a parish church until 1908, when the Claretian fathers began to rebuild it. The 1987 Whitter earthquake damaged it, and repairs and restoration are now complete.

San Gabriel Mission is an integral part of Los Angeles history and even pre-dates the founding of the city of Los Angeles and was an important key in the founding of Los Angeles, San Francisco, and the state of California.

Last Updated ( Sunday, 10 June 2007 )
 
Hsi Lai Buddhist Temple PDF Print E-mail
Written by Keith Rhoades   
Sunday, 03 June 2007

Nestled in Hacienda Heights, Hsi Lai Temple was built to serve as a spiritual and cultural center for those interested in learning more about Buddhism and the Chinese culture. The Buddhist Temple encompasses over 100,000 square feet. The temple's objectives are to nurture Buddhist missionaries through education, to propagate Buddhism through cultural activities, to benefit society through charitable programs, and to edify the populace through Buddhist practices.

It's an amazing place with enormous Buddha statues and a main Shrine where Buddhist come to worship and others come just to look at the incredible grounds. It is the largest Buddhist Temple in the Western Hemisphere.

Hsi Lai Temple encompasses 15 acres and a floor area of 102,432 square feet. The temple's Ming (1268-1644 C. E.) and Ching (1644-1911 C.E.) dynasty architecture is faithful to the traditional style of buildings, gardens and statuary of traditional ancient Chinese monasteries. The ten-year planning and construction was completed in 1988. Hsi Lai means "coming to the West" and signifies the dedication of the Fo Guang Shan Buddhist Order to spread the teachings of the Buddha to those in the West. The International Buddhist Progress Society, a nonprofit organization, is the chartered name for the temple. The organization's headquarters is in Taiwan.

In 1967, Venerable Master Hsing Yun, the founder, established the Fo Guang Shan (Buddha's Light Mountain) Buddhist Order, which is the largest monastery in Taiwan, encompassing over 600 acres. Fo Guang Shan is a Mahayana Chinese Buddhism monastic order. Mahayana in China has separated to 8 different schools: Tian-tai, Pure Land, Ch'an, Hua-yen (Avatamsaka), Fa-Shiang (Yogacaran), Sanlun (Madhyamikan), Dhyana, and Esoteric (Tantra). Fo Guang Shan belongs to Lin-Chi Ch'an School. For the past 30 years, the Master has been instrumental in expanding religious freedom throughout Asia.

The Fo Guang Shan Buddhist Order, through a Humanistic Buddhist orientation, works to unite all Buddhist schools and sects; it also fosters and promotes inter-religious dialogue among all spiritual traditions through symposia, conferences and services. The objectives of the Order are to provide confidence, joy hope and convenience to people. The Order has also established more than 100 temples worldwide. More than 1,300 monks and nuns serve in the Fo Guang Shan Buddhist Order.


The main shrine is the most important building in the temple, and is dedicated to Sakyamuni, the historical Buddha. At the front of the shrine are three large Buddha statues: Sakaymuni Buddha is in the center; Amitabha Buddha is on the left; and the Medicine Buddha is on the right. The latter two Buddhas are especially venerated in Pure Land Buddhism.

Across the courtyard, the Bodhisattva Hall contains statues of the five main bodhisattvas and is entered through three doors representing the Three Jewels or Refuges (the Buddha, the Dharma, and the Sangha).

Hsi Lai is a working monastery in addition to a temple, with a number of monks and nuns living in the complex. The monks and nuns of Hsi Lai provide a variety of classes and special events, including weekly lectures on Buddhism and classes as well as workshops on Chinese culture and language. There are weekly prayer services at Hsi Lai Temple on Saturdays and Sundays, including the recitation of the Diamond Sutra and Amitabha Sutra. Meditation sessions are also held, as well as week-long meditation retreats.

Hsi Lai Temple welcomes visitors and audio guides on a Walkman are available at the Information Center. Guided tours are provided for groups of 15 people or more (call ahead). The cafeteria serves a Chinese and Taiwanese home-style cooking vegetarian lunch buffet and salad bar for $5 from 11am to 1pm. There is also a traditional Tea Room. I used the audio guide which was a huge help in understanding the spirituality and the architecture and the vegan food buffet was very good.

 
Bolsa Chica Ecological Reserve PDF Print E-mail
Written by Keith Rhoades   
Monday, 28 May 2007

Happy Memorial Day! It truly was nice to have Monday off. Now is the official kick off for summer but let us not forget those men and women who served our country through the centuries.

This week was supposed to be a hiking trip to part of the Pacific Crest Trail but due to technical difficulties (namely a broken down car in Temecula) my plans unfortunately had to change. But in spite of this set back, I still made time for a quick little trip down to Huntington Beach for a hike and to check out Bolsa Chica Ecological Preserve. That way I could kill two birds with one stone…get my trip of the week in and get my daily exercise!

Bolsa Chica Ecological Reserve is one of California's most significant coastal wetlands. This 300 acre sanctuary is a popular attraction for tourists and local residents. Bolsa Chica Wetlands or Ecological Reserve features a 1.5 mile trail loop around a water inlet. Believed to be a popular hunting ground to native American tribes at one time, in the early 1900's it was transformed into the Bolsa Hunting Club, a prestigious duck and fowl hunting club with steep membership fees. A Los Angeles Red Car train system included a stop here. In World War II, a portion of the wetlands was used by troops to watch for enemy attacks. The facility is now a protected wetlands. The public can park for free in a paved lot and walk along trails, watching and learning about birds. Dogs, horses, pets and bicycle riding are prohibited.

The best place to observe wildlife is from the footbridge and trail adjacent to Pacific Coast Highway. Several volunteer groups offer free tours leaving the parking lot at this location. The Amigos de Bolsa Chica tour is on the first Saturday of each month from 9 to 10:30 a.m. The Bolsa Chica Land Trust tour is on the third Sunday of each month from 10 a.m. to Noon.


Both tours follow a loop trail through the wetlands and are hosted by trained guides who discuss identification of birds, ecology and history of the wetlands. No reservations are required. Open to foot traffic. Trail parking is accessible from the northbound lane of Pacific Coast Highway one mile south of Warner (across from the Bolsa Chica State Beach entrance).

Bolsa Chica Interpretive Center is your first stop in a walking tour of the wetlands if you are seeking literature to guide you along the way. Free parking and ample assistance is provided for those who venture into the trailer facility near the corner of Pacific Coast Highway and Warner Avenue in Huntington Beach. 

The Interpretive Center features displays for children and adults, brochures to help you on your tour of the Wetlands and gift items such as T-shirts, books, posters and cards. Be sure to take your FREE copy of the Huntington Beach  Bird Checklist before you hit the Ecological Reserve trail.  

Huntington Beach has some of the nation's best birding with nearly half of the birds found in the U.S. spotted there.  321 out of Orange County's 420 bird species have been sighted in Huntington Beach within the past ten years.

History of the Bolsa Chica Wetlands

While there's evidence of habitation at the Bolsa Chica Mesa dating beyond 8,000 years, little is known about the early inhabitants or travelers of this region. Cogged stones, charm stones and arrow points found on the mesa date to this time, though their application and use are not understood. Native Americans before the European arrival had seasonal settlements along the mesa. The hunters and food gatherers who ate game, fruit, nuts and seafood were believed to stay inland during colder weather. Gabrielenos or Tongvas of the Shoshone tribes were accomplished boat builders. Early pioneers called the coastal region including the Bolsa Chica "shell beach," because of the hundreds of thousands of empty shells left along the beaches and bluffs by Native Americans. The Shoshone, who were the first to walk the Bolsa Chica, enjoyed plentiful supplies of fish and shellfish in the wetlands. Evidence suggests they were able to travel between the mainland and offshore islands such as Catalina. Long Beach and Signal Hill were known as the Bay of Smokes for the signals sent between the mainland and the islands and it is not unlikely that the sphere of influence and travel extended to the Bolsa Chica mesa region.

During the Spanish / Mexican occupation of California before it became a US state, the vast lands were deeded or granted to individuals who mostly operated ranches or ranchos. During the late 1700's, the Spanish monks under the direction of Father Junipero Serra began building missions, each a day's walk from the next along the mostly coastal region. Bolsa Chica was situated between Mission San Juan Capistrano and San Gabriel Mission. The construction of the missions and farming of land was often assigned to native laborers who lived on and around the ranchos. Many died during this period from diseases previously unknown to North America.

In 1821 Mexico became independent from Spain. In 1834 the missions were secularized. The Bolsa Chica, or "Little Pocket" ranch was isolated by "swamps," little pockets of dry land, and the ocean. The name, "little pocket" was given when the vast holding of Rancho La Zanja was divided in 1834. Still undeveloped save for the small adobe of the Nieto family, the Bolsa Chica was visited solely by wandering cattle and their watching vaqueros. Manuel Nieto grant divided Rancho Las Bolsas,  giving his widow pockets of land surrounded by marshes; Joaquin Ruiz received a smaller grant: Rancho Bolsa Chica (little pocket) was later acquired by Abel Stearns with individual land ownership prevalent during this era. California was acquired in 1848 and became a state in 1850. As the vast lands were split up and sold to private owners, celery, potatoes and lima beans were grown near the mesa, along with sheep and cattle ranching to supply food to other regions, including California's gold towns and camps. A tour of the Bixby Ranch or Rancho Los Cerritos in Long Beach offers a glimpse into the lifestyle of the region during this era.

In 1895 a Gun Club bought Bolsa Chica. It is ironic that this very location became a sanctuary for hunted fowl who are now protected under the law. Visible remnants and newspaper stories fill in the blanks to the use of the Bolsa Chica during the 1920 oil strike. The land was leased to Standard Oil, then Signal Oil for drilling. As evidenced along the coast, World War II artillery mounts and bunkers were built on this vantage point hill to keep an eye on the waters for potential enemy invasion.

In 1970 Signal Oil bought the land for development but two short years later, in 1972 The Coastal Act became California law. In 1976 Amigos de Bolsa Chica (Friends of Bolsa Chica) was formed to save wetlands from development. Bolsa Chica Ecological Reserve was developed in 1979 as a lengthy struggle between development and preservation ensued. One plan proposed by a development firm would have created a marina for pleasure craft. In 1997 the State of California purchased 880 acres from Signal Oil using mitigation credit. Much of the undeveloped area that has been a working oil field since World War II is pockmarked with rigs and wells. The ground is contaminated with oil, heavy metals, PCBs and mercury — a legacy of decades of drilling.

In 2000, public ownership of Bolsa Chica grew to 1200 acres. Beginning in 2001, the restoration of 550 acres of historic Bolsa Chica lowlands was proposed with groundbreaking of restoration construction began in Fall 2004. With the goal of returning the wetlands to its pre-1900 condition as a major wildlife stop where millions of birds travel, rest, feed and nest, restoration of the Bolsa Chica Wetlands includes a new ocean channel, tidal basins, island habitats and pedestrian bridges that connect the wetlands to the beach via Pacific Coast Highway. The restoration has been completed and was reopened in March 2007.

The wetlands are again a thriving habitat for California least terns, Savannah sparrows, elegant terns and the endangered Western snowy plover, as well as birds that use the wetlands as a stopover in their migration through the Pacific Flyway. And once again the surge of seawater carry in juvenile halibut, crabs, plus plankton and other microscopic creatures.

 
California's Gold Tour Road Trip PDF Print E-mail
Written by Keith Rhoades   
Thursday, 17 May 2007

Highway 49---California Gold Tour!

Well, aside from my big international trips, I love to take a few Road Trips throughout the year. Last year, I did part of Route 66 through California and Arizona and Highway 101 along the California Coast. This spring's road trip was California’s Highway 49 (at least part of it).

I usually take my mom along on these Road Trips however, this time I was a bit skeptical because part of the trip was camping in tent cabins. Suprisingly, she agreed and was the first time in her 71 years of life that she ever camped! So you see…it’s never to late to try something new or undertake what appears to be overwhelming.

So with that said….it was 7 days on the road. I’ll break it down…day by day!

Day 1—Los Angeles to Yosemite

As some of you know, I’m an early riser and I like to get on the road early….that way I avoid the traffic and the heat…two things I don’t do well with. We left at 4 am and went over the Grapevine on to Route 99 through Bakersfield and Fresno where we headed up to the South Entrance of Yosemite National Park arriving at 9 am! The first stop after entering the park was the Mariposa Grove of Giant Sequoia’s…a magnificient site of trees that are over 2000 years old. According to the ranger, some of those trees were seedlings when Cleopatra ruled Egypt! After a walk around some of the trees, we pushed on to the old Pioneer City..sort of like a Ghost Town. Another 35 miles, we drove through the tunnel to the magnificient view of Yosemite Valley…Natures Cathedral with views of Yosemite Falls (highest in North America), Half Dome, El Capitan, and Bridal Veil falls. After several photo opts we headed to camp and lucked out with a campsite right on the Merced River. At this point, mom was a bit nervous about bears, mosquitos, etc but I taught her the ropes of camping in the wild.

Day 2-Yosemite National Park

The next day was spent going around the park. I spoke with a ranger and learned that there are some insects in Yosemite whose life span consists of a few hours while some of the trees life spans 2000 years. It put things in perspective for me. I also stumbled across the Yosemite Cemetery with graves from the 1800’s, and spent time meditating what life must have been like in Yosemite during those early years. It is hard to imagine. I went on a hike which was a bit unnerving because I rarely hike alone. It was shortly after the hike that I saw my first bear in the wild! I was so excited. Mom remained in the car as I walked out into the meadow to get a closer look of the bear.  I don't think she was to happy about that! As the afternoon progressed we continued onto Route 49 and our first stop was Groveland, home of the longest continuously running saloon! Again we set up camp for the night.

Day 3-Route 49 Gold Towns

Day three was spent exploring numerous Gold Town along Route 49. First stop was Chinese Camp a small town originally settled by Chinese gold miners. The next stop was Jamestown, home of the Railroad State Park. We pressed on to Sonora and Columbia State Park which was the “Queen of the Southern Mines”. The town is completely refurbished to it’s 1850 hey day. We then went to Murphy’s a small town for lunch. After, we took a detour off Route 49 up into the Sierra’s to see the Calaveras Big Tree State Park. It was phenomenal, again with 2000 year old Redwoods. We headed back to Route 49 to Angel’s Camp…home of the Jumping Frog contest made famous by Mark Twain which was his first “big hit” and his jump into the writing world. A little south of Angel’s Camp was Jackass Hill where Mark Twain’s Cabin was located. By now, the sun was setting and we headed back to camp.

Day 4—Route 49 Gold Towns

Similar to day three, we visited numerous Gold Towns along Route 49 and it seemed the further north you went the prettier the scenery. The first stop was Jackson. Here I took a detour off Route 49 up into the Sierras to a town, Volcano, that I wanted to see. Volcano boasted a large population in the 1850’s and has the fame of having the first theater, the first library, the largest nugget of Gold mined in California. It was a cultural center and had the first private law school and thespian group. Now it is a small town of not more than 900 people. On the outskirts was Indian Grinding Rock State Park which contained rocks that had been grinded down leaving craters from the Miwok Indians hundreds of years ago. After a quick hike through the park, we back tracked to Route 49 and continued North passing Amador City, Sutter Creek, El Dorado, Placerville, and finally our destination Coloma..along the American River right where James Marshall discovered Gold in January 1848. Our Camp site was right on the river across from Sutters Mill where the Gold was discovered. I was so excited to finally see this historical spot which I feel was a pivotal moment in California and American History. After settling in, I had made arrangements to visit some childhood friends that I had not seen in about 15 years. We grew up together and they moved up North. I was 6 years old when I met them and we all went to the same schools, etc. It was so nice to see them. We had a barbque and catched up. I wanted to get back to camp as I didn’t like to drive the twisting and turning hills at night. We returned to camp for the day.

Day 5—Coloma—Placerville—Sacramento

Day 5 we woke up and packed up camp and spent a considerable amount of time at Marshall State Park where Gold was discovered. It was very interesting to learn how the gold rush began and how it developed California into a state. It was interesting to learn about the women of that time and the various ethnic camps that started. California was the first state in 1852 to allow women to own businesses and from it’s earliest days was a little bit more socially liberal and ahead of the other states…a fact that I’m very proud of! After several hours at the state park we backtracked to Placerville (formerly known at Hangtown). All of these small towns start running together after a while. We then headed to Sacramento where to my mom’s relief we stayed in a Motel!

Day 6-Sacramento

I’ve been to several State capitols but sadly never to my home state capitol. Finally after 38 years with my avid interest in history and political science I finally made it! Unfortunately, it was “Kids Day at the Capitol”. But I managed to keep one step ahead of all the field trips. I toured the capitol building—the senate room, assembly room, rotunda, and read up on a few historical documents. The reception there was very nice and they even gave me some books (for free) on political process, California State Constitution, and the like. It got my juices flowing to become more politically active again. After, touring the state capitol building I then went to Sutters Fort which I remember studying in 4th grade. It was one of the first white settlements in Sacremento. After a quick tour of the fort, I headed to the Governors Mansion which is being renovated. No governor has lived in the mansion since the Reagan’s (apparently Nancy thought it was a fire trap). For those with a curious mind…Arnold stays at the Hyatt rather than have a house in Sacremento. There is no plans to build a new governor’s mansion. After the 1 hour tour of the mansion we headed to the Old Cemetery and saw the graves of Sutter and some of the big names and founders of California---Huntington, Crocker, Davis. The last stop in Sacremento was Old Town Sacramento State Park. It is a refurbished part of town capturing the glory days of Sacremento in the 1850’s along the Sacremento River. After a long day we headed back to the Motel.

Day 7—The I-5

On the last day we left Sacramento at 7 am as it is a long and arduous journey on the I-5 back to Los Angeles. It is slightly more than 400 miles and driving at 60 miles and hour can take nearly 7 hours. Plus…there is nothing…and I mean nothing to see between here and there except cattle, ranches, and groves. The wheels just kept turning and it gets very hot in the Central San Joaquin Valley…but at last, we made it home safe and sound in 6 hours (no I was not driving the speed limit).

It was a wonderful road trip with so much culture, nature, and history to be found. This blog is just a synopsis of what we saw and did…but I will be writing more detailed articles about each of the destinations including costs, what to see, historical facts so be sure to check the articles section in the coming weeks.

Last Updated ( Friday, 18 May 2007 )
 
Topanga State Park PDF Print E-mail
Written by Keith Rhoades   
Sunday, 06 May 2007

I almost didn’t have time for a “trip of the week” this week as I am in the process of preparing for Road Trip 2007---“California Gold Country”. But the weather on Sunday was to superb to pass up so I decided to get my exercise and “trip of the week” all in one shot at Topanga State Park.

Located in the cliffs and canyons of the Santa Monica Mountains, Topanga State Park features 36 miles of trails through open grassland, live oaks and spectacular views of the Pacific Ocean.

The park is located entirely within the Los Angeles city limits and is considered the world’s largest wildland within the boundaries of a major city. Excellent recreational opportunities for hikers as well as mountain bikers and equestrians.

The park is bound on the south by Pacific Palisades and Brentwood, on the west by Topanga Canyon, and on the east by Rustic Canyon. Numerous geologic formations can be found in the park, including earthquake faults, marine fossils, volcanic intrusions, and a wide variety of sedimentary formations.

Location/Directions
A good place to start a visit to Topanga State Park is Trippet Ranch, once a "gentleman's ranch" for a weekend getaway from the city.

From Pacific Coast Highway, travel north on Topanga Canyon Boulevard, pass the post office at the center of "town," then turn right on Entrada Road.

Keep to the left at every opportunity until you reach the park's main parking lot (about one mile). From the Ventura Freeway (101), exit at Topanga Canyon Boulevard, drive south over the crest of the mountains and proceed three miles to Entrada Road and turn left.

Park Trails
Many of the park's trails can be accessed from Trippet Ranch. The Musch Trail leads north to Musch Trail Camp by winding in and out of the sun and shade where plant assemblages change with every subtle difference in light and moisture.

Two miles from Trippet is Eagle Junction, where hikers encounter the Eagle Spring loop trail. Eagle Rock, one of the many boulder outcrops on the trail, looms over the terrain and provides panoramic views of the park. At the eastern end of the Eagle Spring loop, hikers will come to the Hub Junction and the Temescal Fire Road.

Going north, hikers travel through chaparral to unpaved Mulholland Drive, which traverses the park. South on Temescal Fire Road takes hikers high above the wild canyons with sycamore and oak riparian forests below. At Rogers Junction, hikers can opt for the Backbone Trail, a trail that winds through the Santa Monica Mountains from Will Rogers State Historic park in the east to Point Mugu State Park in the west. Rustic Canyon can be seen from the Backbone Trail.

Another option from Trippet Ranch is to walk east to the Topanga Fire Road and then north for a short distance to the Santa Inez Trail. Descending into the Santa Inez Canyon, hikers can see crumbly sandstone formations containing pockets where moisture can collect, supporting numerous small plants that form tiny cliff gardens. Close to the bottom of the trail is a side trail leading to a lovely waterfall.

The weather and clarity today in Los Angeles was perfect…84 degrees and one could see as far as your eyes would let you! So, now it is Sunday night..time to unwind and prepare for the work week, though short this week.

Stay tuned…there will be no Trip of the Week next Sunday….as I will be on my Road Trip to Yosemite, Sonora, Jackson, Placerville, Coloma (site of Gold discovery), visit and old friend and finally Sacramento the state capitol! Trip notes will be posted the following weekend…until then…Happy Rhoades….

 
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