During the summer months I’m in a quandary. I don’t want to go too far inland or north because temps can soar to 100 degrees. On the other hand, I hate driving into some of the beach communities where there are flocks of tourists, high school students on break, and “summer getaway” crowds leading to noise and traffic jams. But the weather is nice at the beach this time of year, so for the second week in a row my destination was a beach spot known as Balboa Island part of Newport Beach in Orange County. I left early enough in the day to arrive about 10 am and beat the mass of people that arrive in the late afternoon.

In the late 1860’s, the bay was used as a landing to load hides, tallow, hay and other goods for export. In September 1870, Captain Samuel S. Dunnells’ steamer Vaquero ventured into the bay to offload a cargo of lumber and shingles. Captain Dunnells soon established “Newport Landing” by constructing a small wharf and warehouse near the west end of the present Coast Highway/Newport Bay Bridge.

James McFadden and his younger brother Robert acquired the landing in 1875 survey map of Newport Bay 1875 and for the next nineteen years operated a thriving commercial trade and shipping business. However, the bay was not yet a true harbor and sand bars and a treacherous bay entrance caused the McFadden Brothers to move the shipping business to the oceanfront by constructing a large pier on the sand spit that would become the Balboa Peninsula. The site was ideal because a submarine canyon (Newport Submarine Canyon), carved along with Newport Bay by the ancient Santa Ana River, provided calm waters close to the shore. McFadden Wharf was completed in 1888 and was connected by rail to Santa Ana in 1891. For the next eight years, the McFadden Wharf area was a booming commercial and shipping center and a company town began to grow. However, in 1899, the Federal Government allocated funds for major improvements to a new harbor at San Pedro, which would become Southern California’s major seaport. The McFadden Wharf and railroad was sold to the Southern Pacific Railroad that same year, signaling the end of Newport Bay as a commercial shipping center.

 In 1902, James McFadden sold his Newport townsite and about half of the Peninsula to William S. Collins, who saw Newport Bay’s resort and recreation potential. Collins took on Henry E. Huntington as a partner in the Newport Beach Company. Huntington had acquired the Pacific Electric railway system and used it to promote new communities outside of Los Angeles. In 1905, the Pacific Electric “Red Cars” were extended to Newport. Collins began dredging a channel on the north side of the bay and deposited the sand and silt on tidelands that would become Balboa Island. Formerly known as Balisle, this enchanting little island was not always easy to get to. Newport Harbor was still largely undredged, and sailboat was often the only way to get around. Robert McFadden, an early Balboa Harbor developer had established a successful fishing wharf on the Balboa Peninsula and by 1906, the Pacific Electric line Red Cars began service to the Balboa Peninsula and Pavilion, and soon, the Red Cars would bring thousands of summertime visitors from Los Angeles.

Between 1902 and 1907, many of Newport Beaches’ waterfront communities were subdivided, including West Newport, East Newport, Bay Island, Balboa, and Balboa Island. This established the grid system of small lots and narrow streets and alleys that still exists today in these areas.

Within a few years, real estate promoters began sending salesmen up to wealthy Pasadena and soon to Los Angeles (both connected by the Red Cars) to promote property in and around Newport Harbor. Considerable Balboa Island property was sold in Pasadena, and this is one of the reasons that so many longtime Island residents continue to have family and contacts in the Pasadena area. One of these real estate promoters was William Collins. At the time, Balboa Island was little more than a sandbar that was usually swallowed up by high tide.

In 1908 and 1909, with permission of the Orange County Board of Supervisors, Collins moved his small dredge to the eastern part of the Newport bay, a mud flat called "Snipe Island," and begin cutting a channel along the north side of the bay across from the Pavilion, pilling the sand and silt up on the mud flat and thus Balboa Island was born.

At this same time an advertising campaign was prepared offering lots for $350.00 to $750.00. The high priced lots were located on the waterfront. However, despite the advertisements, Collins originally sold lots on the Island for as little as $25, with promises that all streets, sewers and street lights would be soon installed and a bridge and ferry service to follow. Construction was begun for the ferry landing. Streets were staked out and lots were mapped. Even a few narrow sidewalks were built. A low 14-inch wooden bulkhead was built along the south side of the island and an impromptu sewer system was laid out with pipes draining onto the beaches at their low tide levels to keep the discharge out of sight.

Balboa Island was a summer vacation place. Most homes had no heaters, and were closed up in the winter. Families came down for the entire summer. Cooking was done on a gasoline stove as there was no gas or electricity. Coal oil lanterns and candles were used. The first "seawall", a wooden bulkhead that protected part of the Island, was built in 1909. This was partially replaced by a cement barrier (cheap German cement) in 1912. Water lines to the Island were first laid in 1914.

The island grew slowly at first, but in 1916, it became part of the City of Newport Beach. In 1918 the Balboa Island Improvement Association was started (and is still going strong). The BIIA was a strong motivating force in working with the City on bulkhead repair, ferry service, a sewer system, water, gas, electricity, paved streets and sidewalks, and street lighting.

In those early days (1919), water for the Island came from the famous "Wooden Water Tower" built on Agate St. (removed in 1929). In 1920, Park Ave. was the only road paved on the Island.  People had outhouses behind their house as there was no sewer.  They buried trash in big holes dug in vacant lots. In 1920, a gas utility came to the Island (heating, cooking, lights)

Joseph Allan Beek, while still a student at Pasadena City College, was enchanted with the area, and became one of Collins' salesmen. Joe Beek played a crucial role in the development of Balboa Island, and spent a lifetime devoted to it. In 1919, Joe got the first contract for a ferry between the Island and Balboa Pennisula. In 1920, the first car was pushed across the bay (for 10 cents). In 1922, Joe Beek got a 15 year franchise, using the ferry boat "Joker", which could hold two cars. That franchise has continued until this day, with three 64 ft.  boats that can carry three cars. He later served as Secretary of the California State Senate until his death in 1968.

By 1921, homes were beginning to fill in the Island and Balboa Peninsula. Roads to the Newport Harbor area were still largely undeveloped, and many people still arrived by rail to the peninsula and took the ferry over to the island. Although the first Bridge from the mainland to the North Bayfront was built in 1912, it was not capable of carrying automobiles until 1929, when it was refurbished.

The seawall was rebuilt in 1922. . The Grand Canal wooden bulkhead and walk were rebuilt in concrete in 1929. The present day Bay Front bulkhead, walks and public piers were completed in 1938.

In 1924, the narrow bridge to Balboa Island was replaced with two lanes of wood. That bridge existed until 1928, when it was demolished to make way for a Concrete Bridge. Some of the wood from the old bridge was used to construct the building next to the "Jolly Roger" restaurant on Marine Ave. (now Wilma's). In 1929, a new Concrete Bridge was built and served for 51 years. Population grew from a little over 100 in 1929 to today's 4,500 in winter and close to 10,000 summer renters. In 1981, the Bridge was replaced with  a modern concrete structure with 9' wide walks.

In the 20's and 30's, many movies were shot on Balboa Island. James Cagney bought Collins Island in 1938. The Coast Guard used Collins Island during WWII and Cagney sold the Island in 1948.

In 1953, the International Boy Scout Jamboree held its event where Newport Center and Fashion Island now sit. Thousands of tents were pitched in the area reachable only by a two-lane muddy trail called Palisades Road. The road was soon paved, and later the name was changed to Jamboree Road in honor of the Scouts.

Today it remains a major thoroughfare through Newport Beach, and ends at Balboa Island. Over the years, Balboa Island has developed into a wonderful community, home to professionals, families, retirees, students and celebrities. Some bay front lots that once sold for $25 are now appraised at over $3 million dollars. And yet, Balboa Island maintains its charm and small-town feel.

In the Summertime, the Bayfront is lined with joggers, children and summertime visitors eating Balboa Bars. In the serene winters, sometimes all one can hear is the sound of halyard lines beating against their masts and an occasional seagull. The Island has undergone significant improvements, thanks in great part to the Balboa Island Improvement Association.

After crossing Pacific Coast Highway on the bridge onto actual Balboa Island I explored some of th shops. I then decided to be adventurous and take my car on the ferry to the peninsula side. For $2.00 a ferry carried my car and myself over to the peninsula where I went to Peninsula Park and ate my picnic lunch. I then spent the remainder of my time shopping in the shotzky shops along the boardwalk and even broke down and had a Balboa Bar. The hordes and masses of people started to come in and I thought it was about time for me to leave back home until my next journey…next week….

It still amazes me how being born and raised in Los Angeles, I still have not seen or visited every jewel in Southern California. Many times I have driven from Los Angeles to San Diego and drove through Dana Point realizing it was the half way point but never stopping. This week, I decided to check out this “half way” point and was surprised by how much there is to see and do along with learning some history!

As most of you know, I love history and I love literature and yet all this time I never put together the fact that Dana Point was named after Richard Henry Dana author of “Two Years Before the Mast”. Panoramic views abound in the natural cove that author and seaman Richard Henry Dana called, "The only romantic spot on the coast." Dana landed here during the hide trading days of the 1830's and described the charm of the steep cliff cove in his renowned book, TWO YEARS BEFORE THE MAST. In the days of the square rigged sailing ships, the rugged cove was known as Bahia Capistrano and was the major port between San Diego and Santa Barbara.

This was one of those impromptu trips that I really didn’t have a specific destination or even a map. I just showed up! My first stop was the visitor’s center in the Harbor Area where I met Rob and Rod two elderly men who volunteer their time to distribute brochures and help people with direction or to talk about their city. After chatting up Rob and Rod I was given a handful of maps and pamphlets and headed to the harbor.

The construction of Dana Point Harbor started in the late 1960's with the building of the rock breakwater jetties. The water inside the jetties was then pumped out after all the shellfish and sea life had been transplanted. The marina was then built and the water was allowed to reenter when the temporary jetty across the entrances to the East and West Basin was removed. Dana Point Harbor was officially dedicated on July 31, 1971. While the harbor was very advanced in design and facilities, it has retained the secluded beauty and historic charm of its romantic past.

Dana Point Marina is divided into two basins, the East Basin and West Basin. Each basin operates as a separate marina, holding a total of 2,500 slips for vessels of various sizes. Also, included in the harbor are fifty quest slips for boats transiting the coastline and yacht clubs making weekend cruises to the ever popular harbor. There is also a ten lane launch ramp, dry boat storage hoist, fishing pier, shipyard, marine fuel dock, three yacht clubs and a commercial sports fishing operation which also offers whale watching trips during the migration season. Numerous restaurants and stores cater to the many people who shop in the marina and enjoy a good meal in a beautiful setting in either Mariner's Village or the Dana Wharf areas. A large hotel in the marina, The Marina Inn, offers overnight lodging for people wishing to stay in the harbor. There is a small swim beach in the west end of the harbor and numerous picnic tables and shade structures spread throughout the harbor for the public's enjoyment.

The Orange County Marine Institute, located at the far west end of Dana Point Harbor, is a unique educational experience for both children and adults. The facility provides classroom instruction, wet laboratory equipment, display tanks, and exhibits to study marine life. A 70 foot research vessel "Sea Explorer" provides daily cruises to study and observe marine life offshore. Just beyond the base of the breakwater lies the Marine Life Refuge, a protected area for observing marine life in the tidepools at the base of the majestic bluffs overlooking the ocean.

The Marine Institute also displays the brig "Pilgrim" which is a full-sized replica of the square rigged vessel on which Richard Henry Dana sailed into this cove. The Pilgrim is docked adjacent to the fishing pier and offers school children the experience of life aboard a sailing ship in the 19th century. The Pilgrim is a full size replica of the hide brig immortalized by Richard Henry Dana, Jr. in his American seafaring classic novel Two Years Before the Mast. Dana said of the Pilgrim, "The vessel I am going on is small, but strong and a remarkably fast sailer having been built for the smuggling trade."

The original Pilgrim was built in 1825 at a cost of $ 50,000. Her length was a mere 90 feet compared to the average 110 feet for other vessel of the same class. The purpose of its 1834 voyage was to participate in the California cattle hide trade for her Boston owners, Bryant and Sturgis. 

The Pilgrim set sail from Boston loaded with England’s manufactured goes such as shoes, foodstuffs and ironware. When she arrived along the Alta California coast, The Pilgrim would sell or trade her New England wares then procure hides from the missions and rancheros to be transported back to Boston. The Pilgrim anchored several times of San Juan Bay (Dana Point). It is not known in what other trades the Pilgrim engaged after her voyage to Alta California, Mexico. However, it is recorded that she was lost in a fire at sea in 1856. By this time the hide trade had also suffered its demise.

Today’s Pilgrim started her life in 1945 as a three-masted schooner plying the Baltic coastal trade out of Denmark. In 1975, She was sailed to Lisbon, Portugal by Captain Ray Wallace, the noted marine architect, where she was converted to her present rig.

The Pilgrim entered Dana Point Harbor in September 1981, amidst tremendous community support, destined to become the Orange County Ocean Institute’s largest classroom. Today, the Pilgrim provides a national award winning living history program to over 16,000 students a year.

Aside from acting as a living classroom for students and a theater for the public, the Pilgrim actually sets sail annually with her volunteer crew. The skills of sailing and maintaining a historic vessel are kept alive by a volunteer crew, which musters every spring to learn traditional seafaring skills. Late summer, the Pilgrim sets sail on her sail-training voyage up the coast and around the southern and northern Channel Islands. The brig visits ports along the way as an ambassador of good will for the city of Dana Point. Her return in early September is celebrated with the annual Toshiba Tallships Festival.

Dana Point Harbor offers the recreational boaters and county residents alike, numerous events which attract thousands of spectators and participants each year. Starting with the February "Festival of the Whales" and its many activities for a three week period. Other events during the year include: the Classic Wooden Boat Festival, offshore powerboat races in June, spectacular July 4th fireworks show, "Tallship Festival" in September, and the Thanksgiving Day "Turkey Trot" Race. The annual "Christmas Boat Parade" concludes the year's events.

After visiting the Harbor, The Wharf, The “Pilgrim” and Marine Institute I went up to the cliffs for a breathtaking view of the entire harbor area. Unfortunately, the weather was not the greatest and hardly seemed like a Southern California Summer Day, but the view was great nonetheless.

My final stop as I was leaving Dana Point was Doheny State Beach just east of the Harbor District. I always enjoy checking out state park for history and possible camping. Doheny State Beach is the only California State Park to boast an aquarium! Doheny Beach..One of the Beaches immortalized by the Beach Boys song Surfing USA. This beach provides fishing, swimming, surfing, riding, camping, barbecuing and diving. It is also one of Orange County's popular camping spots. There are showers, barbecues and picnic tables as well as beachfront campsites for both RV's and tents. The campsites are level with the beach, but they are closely packed together. There is an interpretive center that showcases the wildlife you may encounter in Doheny State Marine Life Refuge-an underwater park for divers. The center has a 500 gallon tide pool tank. Doheny also has a five mile San Juan Creek Bike Trail and an equestrian trail that links with another trail that heads inland to San Juan Capistrano. The beach was named for Edward L. Doheny 1856-1935, who was the first person to discover oil in Southern California.

The only place I had stopped in this area before was Mission San Juan Capistrano. I never knew this whole other world existed in that area with outdoor recreation, shopping, food, breathtaking views, and historical significance!

Decades ago when immigrants were pouring into the United States, Los Angeles was very similar to cities like New York, Boston, Philadelphia and Chicago. The area surrounding downtown Los Angeles was surrounded by neighborhoods with pockets of ethnic groups---The Poles, The Germans, The Irish, the Italians and so on. Each neighborhood with it’s meat market, produce stand, church, community functions and a close knit network of neighbors with the same language and cultural experience. One such neighborhood was the Greek Area of Los Angeles. There are now only remnants of this area as now it is on the fringes of what we now call Korea town. One such remnant is the St. Sophia’s Greek Orthodox Cathedral. This magnificent Greek Orthodox Church is actually the result of a Hollywood success story.

While he was still trying to get ahead in Hollywood, Charles Skouras made a vow to God that he would build a majestic cathedral if God would grant him success in show biz. Charlie Skouras got his wish. He went on to become the head of National Pictures.

What's more, his brother, Spyros Skouras (who began life as a poor Greek shepherd), became the president of 20th Century Fox and stayed at the helm of the studio for 20 years, introducing Cinemascope, and overseeing the production of such epics as "Cleopatra" (with Elizabeth Taylor), as well as the creation of Century City. His other brother, George, became the head of United Artists. And in 1932, the Skouras Brothers (Spyros, George and Charles) took over the management of over 500 Fox-West Coast theaters

A man of his word, Charles Skouras built Saint Sophia church in 1952, in what was then the Greek section of town. And he didn't cut any corners.

You could drive right past the outside of this domed church (ordering what is now Koreatown) without ever realizing that its simple exterior conceals what is almost certainly the most beautiful church in Los Angeles and Orange Counties.

Step inside the church, and you will be overwhelmed by its sheer, dazzling beauty. Saint Sophia's is truly awe-inspiring: seventeen crystal chandeliers hang from its soaring ceilings; twelve towering stained glass windows line the walls; the altar & pulpit are a mass of ornately-carved gold, bronze and marble. Most impressive, though, are the sweeping icons (paintings) which adorn virtually every wall and ceiling in vivid colors. Above the altar is an enormous painting of the Madonna and Child. The vast dome above the center of the church contains an immense likeness of Christ.

This spectacular cathedral is truly a one-of-a-kind sight, not to be missed.

And the Hollywood connection has continued at Saint Sophia's: members of the church congregation have included actor Telly Savalas (of "Kojak" fame) and actor George Chakiris (who won an Academy Award in 1962 for his role as Bernardo in "West Side Story").  

On January 25, 1994, the funeral for Telly Savalas was held at Saint Sophia.

And in late May of 2002, NYPD Blue's Sharon Lawrence will get married at St. Sophia - in real life, the same church where her character on the show ('Sylvia Costas ') got married to Dennis Franz's character ('Detective Andy Sipowitz') on "NYPD Blue".

After touring around the cathedral and fascinated by it’s art work and beauty inside, I had heard about a local Greek Restaurant that I wanted to check out and stay in the spirit of the old Greek Neighborhood. Just across the street from the Church are C & K Importing and Papa Cristos Deli, a deli/grocery store selling and serving Greek and Mediterranean foods and goods. I was there on a Friday afternoon but every Thursday is My Big Fat Greek Wedding Family Style Dinner!

In the store, you could buy Greek cheeses, bakeries, wines and other items as well as meets and other deli items. I ate at the restaurant of Papa Cristos and the prices are reasonable and the lamb that I had, was the best I had ever tasted. I had Souvlaki served with pita bread and tzatziki sauce. I felt like I had stepped back in time, to an era where such local cafes and ethnic markets could be found.

There’s a museum here in Los Angeles that I have been wanting to visit for several year. This week during the 4^th of July festivities, I made the trek up to West LA to check out the Simon Wiesenthal Center and Museum of Tolerance.

Since I had recently visited Israel, I was not shocked by the strict security of getting into the museum. Cars and trunks are check, metal detectors and x ray machines are used, and you are not allowed to use cameras, cell phones, or other electronic devices. It did remind me of my recent trip to Israel with all of the security measures. But once inside the museum, it was an enlightening and fascinating exhibit.

If I had to describe the "history of humankind" in the simplest terms I would call it a battle between "Hate, Ignorance and Greed" versus "Resistance, Struggle and the Fight for Freedom." My visit to the "Museum of Tolerance" made me realize that the persistent conflict between these two has caused history to repeat itself in countless cruel ways. The Museum of Tolerance addresses two main themes that humankind is guilty of committing: racism and prejudice (focusing on America) and the history of the Holocaust during World War II (the notorious example of "man's inhumanity to man"). My overall experience at this museum in West Los Angeles left me saddened by the overwhelming amount of racism that has pervaded our world. Racism is bred out of "hate, ignorance and greed" and it leads to self-destruction. Racism has divided and conquered people because it seeps into our everyday thoughts, our actions, socioeconomic and political life, our basic survival. It has, and probably always will be a personal issue that we cannot escape. All of this may sound dismal, but it's a truth that we must face and especially challenge.

The first section of the museum I entered, called the "Tolerance Center", gave an historical account of racism in America and how it exists today. Interactive exhibits of talking wooden heads and videos of social scenes showed people attesting to stereotypes and biases. Among the many harsh words and phrases that were spoken, there were those like, "They're taking all our jobs," "You know all they're good at is Math", and "Why don't they go back where they came from." Another exhibit, titled "Images that stay with us?" addressed how media impressions we received as children influence us.

The last two features of the "Tolerance Center" that stood out were the interactive television screens covering the L.A. riots and a gigantic computerized wall map titled, "The Other America." These two exhibits showed that "hate" and "corruption" are still very prevalent in our country. From "The Other America" I learned that a very large number of "hate groups" span the entire U.S. It was frightening to realize that these white supremacists weren't so distant as they seemed to be and also the fact that some were titled under "church" organizations. There were also computer terminals that showed the plethora of “hate groups” on line. White supremacy, anti gay, Mexican supremacy, African amerircans against whites, men superior to women, Islam versus Christianity, it was amazing at the number of hate groups. I have to admit, I went in with my own bias thinking that most of the hate groups would be white, straight, male…but surprisingly hate groups know no bounds. There is a hate group for everyone. It's ridiculous the way that some people believe their race is superior than others. It's crazy when you think about it because there is no single homogenous race. This leads me to the second part of the museum, the part that struck me the most: the tour of the history of the Holocaust.

At the beginning of the Holocaust tour each visitor received a photo card containing the real-life story of a child impacted by the events. The child I had was named Richard Benguigui; he was a six-year old whose mother was captured and deported to the Auschwitz death camp in Poland. Richard and his brothers were sent to a children's home that was run by Germans. The museum guide told the group that in the end, after witnessing the events, the fate of our child would be revealed. I felt a bit uneasy and depressed about this idea.

The Holocaust tour was not only an educational experience for me, but it was also "very moving, emotional and deep." As we entered the dark and cold corridors, images of swastikas and Adolf Hitler's rise to power covered various exhibit scenes. I knew very little about Hitler, besides the fact that he could be personified as the devil himself, a Nazi leader responsible for the murder of millions of people. What I learned was that Hitler was a demagogue who exploited people's fears and desires. He blamed the Jews for the problems of German society and began the propaganda that laid way for Jewish persecution. The German population found Hitler to be very captivating. I had to ask myself, "How could a person have so much hatred for an entire group of people that never did him any harm? How could so many people buy into his
hateful words and ideas?" As the tour progressed I noticed that images of Hitler and mention of his name disappeared altogether. It was almost as if he was no longer needed because the movement to destroy the Jewish people progressed by itself. It was supported and unquestioned by too many people -- Germans and non-Germans, leaders and common people, the young and the old.

The museum guide brought up the question, "Who was responsible?". Later I learned that the answer to this was larger than Hitler himself. The reenactment of the conference where leaders decided on the "final solution to the Jewish question" gives testament to this. I was struck at how they spoke about Jews as non-humans, like dispensable animals for the slaughter. It was here afterwards that the tour devastated me more -- it was the beginning of the Holocaust and the mass-killings. Seeing the countless images of innocent people suffering and dying left me speechless. I wondered how the museum guide could stand repeating the same stories over and over.

Before visiting the museum I never gave thought as to how other countries were reacting to the events of the Holocaust at the time. I learned later that the Holocaust was "internationally ignored", countries such as the United States initially refused to let Jews immigrate for fear of "importing a race problem." Many reasons for acts like this were for economics, but basically other countries were just as impacted by the racism as the Germans.

After millions of Jewish people had already died, the United States was one of the countries to come in as "rescuers." This was the same country that refused them to begin with and also one that was imprisoning their own American citizens on U.S. soil, these were the Japanese Americans in internment camps.
As the tour came to an end two questions appeared on a screen: "Who was responsible?" and "Could it happen again?". It was the fault of more than one man, but of many people, countries and leaders who could've questioned the events and taken immediate action. In the words of the museum guide, "Everyone was responsible." This made me think about racism today and how we should challenge its destructive impacts. Racism is such a complicated issue and I can offer no final solution. Like those everyday people during World War II who did challenge the Holocaust, I think it really starts with the individual. Everyone has a choice to question the pre-existing ideas about those "who are different."

In the end I finally discovered the fate of six-year old Richard. The children's home that he was in was closed down and overtaken by a German decision. On May of 1944 Richard and his brothers were murdered in the gas chambers of Auschwitz. He was one of the 1.5 million Jewish children killed in the Holocaust.

As I left the museum, I could not help but remember some of my trips to destinations like the battle of Gallipoli, the camps at Auschwitz, the battle fields of Belgium, Manger Square in the West Bank, and the countless other historical sites I’ve been to and realize that we keep repeating the same mistakes over and over again.

I highly recommend a visit to this museum not only for it’s historical value and interest but also it’s provocation in making you think about the world and about yourself