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Pershing Square, the Biltmore Hotel and Los Angeles Central Libary |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Sunday, 07 March 2010 |
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Even though I grew up in Los Angeles, I’ve never really explored downtown Los Angeles. Growing up it always seemed so congested, difficult to find parking, and frankly not much of a “scene” like in other large metropolitan cities like New York or Chicago. I’ve been venturing downtown more lately as it does contain a treasure of art deco architecture and some fascinating history. In addition, they’ve “cleaned up” parts of downtown and have restored many of the historical buildings. There is an actual walking tour of downtown Los Angeles with maps and directions and plaques at points of interest. This week I checked out three specific historical spots in the heart of downtown LA…Pershing Square, the Biltmore Hotel, and the Central Library. For years the square was a dusty vacant parcel known as block number 15 in Ord's Survey of Los Angeles. However, in 1866, an ordinance was signed by Mayor Aguillar declaring the block "...a public square for the use and benefit of the citizens of the common." The square was designed as a formal Spanish plaza and became known as La Plaza Abaja.
By 1887 the area around the square was becoming residential, and the new residents referred to the square as Los Angeles Park. Cypress and citrus trees were planted and a white picket fence was constructed to discourage stray livestock from entering the park.
In the early 1890's, the park was renamed Central Park. It was redesigned by Fred Eaton, then a City Engineer and later Mayor. A serpentine promenade, wooden benches, new plantings, sidewalks, and a bandstand were provided.
In 1911 the park was again redesigned, this time by the noted architect John Parkinson. The design was formal and symmetrical, with European antecedents. There were classic walkways within the square, a beautiful central fountain, lush plantings, and ornamental corner balustrades. The perimeter walkways around the park, which has been an important component of the Central Park in the early 1900's were maintained by Parkinson.
In 1918, "in a fit of Armistice Day fever," Central Park's name was changed to Pershing Square, and a statue of a dough boy was added to the corner of the park.
Most of the buildings on or near the square were built in the 1920's and early 1930'sÉ.During this period the Square was widely known for its colorful orators, military posts, and newsstands. Even the public library set up shop here.
Tropical plantings were added to the park in 1928 by Frank Shearer, the Park Superintendent. As early as 1928, there were suggestions to put a parking facility under Pershing Square. The intended purpose was to alleviate congestion downtown, and later, to revive the ailing Broadway Theater District. In 1950-51, after two decades of pressure, the City permitted construction of an 1800-car garage under Pershing Square. The park became a roof of grass. Automobile ramps on each side cut off the park from the surrounding city, making the square into an island, difficult to approach.
Standing in the park now you can see all of the old 1920’s and 1930’s art deco buildings dwarfed by the more modern skyscrapers. Directly across the street stand the Biltmore Hotel. The Biltmore hotel has hosted 7 Presidents which even included John F. Kennedy’s accepting the Presidential Nominee in 1960! The Biltmore was opened in 1923 and was the largest hotel west of Chicago!
The Biltmore is known for once being a home to the Oscars. The Academy of Motion Picture Arts & Sciences was founded at a luncheon banquet in the Crystal Ballroom in May 1927, when guests like Louis B. Mayer met to discuss plans for the new organization and presenting achievement awards to colleagues in their industry. Legend has it that MGM art director Cedric Gibbons, who was in attendance, immediately grabbed a linen Biltmore napkin and sketched the design for the Oscar statue on it. In 1977 Bob Hope hosted the Academy's 50th Anniversary banquet in the same room. During World War II, the Biltmore served as a military rest and recreation facility, with the entire second floor set up with cots for military personnel on leave.
On March 7, 1952, the well-known yogi and author Paramahansa Yogananda, while giving a speech in honor of the Indian ambassador Binay Ranjan Sen, dropped dead of a heart attack at the Biltmore Hotel. This site within the hotel is now revered by many as the place of the yogi's mahasamadhi, or conscious leave of the body.
In 1960 the Democratic National Convention appointed John F. Kennedy as the party's presidential nominee; he accepted the nomination at the Biltmore and set up his campaign headquarters in the Music Room (now the Lobby), with running mate Lyndon B. Johnson across the hall in the Emerald Room. Their press conferences in the Crystal Ballroom were heavily photographed and documented.
The Beatles paid a visit to the Presidential Suite in August 1964 during their first U.S. tour. Due to the overwhelming number of fans crowding the sidewalks in front of the hotel, the "Fab Four" were forced to access their room by landing atop the hotel in a helicopte
Another tid bit of information I learned at the Hotel was the hotel lobby is the last place the “Black Dahlia” was seen alive before she was murdered.
The "Biltmore Angel" is heavily incorporated into the design—as a symbol of the city as well as the hotel itself. With a thick steel and concrete frame, the structure takes up half a city block and rises over 11 stories.
Inside, the hotel is decorated with vivid frescoes, murals, carved marble fountains and columns, wood-beam ceilings, imported travertine stone walls, crystal chandeliers, bronze stairwells and doorways, stately columns, fine mill work and heavy drapery. Most notable are the ceilings in the main Galleria and the Crystal Ballroom, which were hand painted in 1922 by Italian artist Giovanni Smeraldi, known for his work in the Vatican and the White House. Smeraldi and his team famously painted the ballroom's colorful, seamless fresco over a period of 7 months, decorating it with figures of Greek and Roman gods, angels, cupids and other mythological creatures. It was meticulously restored in the 1980s by Smeraldi's apprentice, Anthony Heinsbergen The imported Austrian crystal chandeliers that adorn it are 12 feet in diameter.
The Rendezvous Court, once the hotel's lobby but now used primarily for afternoon tea, is decorated with a Moorish plaster ceiling painted with 24-carat gold accents, two imported Italian chandeliers dating back to 1923, and a grand Spanish-Baroque bronze doorway, whose astrological clock still keeps time today. Two figures appear on the stairwell front—on the left is the Roman goddess of agriculture Ceres, while on the right is the Spanish conquistador Balboa. The current lobby at the hotel's Grand Ave. entrance still has its original travertine walls and oak paneling as well as the large artificial skylight ceiling, reflected in the custom carpet below.
Each ballroom on the Galleria level is themed either after the rooms’ original function or the hotel's overall California-heritage premise. The Emerald Room was once the hotel's main guest dining room; its decor features images of hunt and harvest, with hand-painted animals and fish on the cast-plaster ceiling beams. The Tiffany Room was formerly an open corridor used as a drop-off point for Crystal Ballroom functions. Now enclosed, the elegant space centers around exploration, with relief sculptures and panels depicting Queen Isabella, Christopher Columbus, and other Spanish explorers. The split-level Gold Room, once a dining room for elite guests, features Prohibition-era hidden liquor compartments and panels along the ceiling for press photographers to take pictures of the event below. It is decorated with a gold cast-plaster ceiling, hand-oiled wood paneling, and nine mirrored windows along three sides.
The South Galleria is painted with floral friezes inspired by the decor of Pompeii, Italy, and features a vaulted ceiling, marble balustrades and heavy Roman piers. Gold-painted wrought iron gates (made famous in Alfred Hitchcock's Vertigo) open to a staircase leading down to the Biltmore Bowl. Also of interest is the hotel's health club and indoor pool, which was modeled after the decks of 1920s cruiseliners such as the Queen Mary. Solid brass trim on windows, doors and railings, teakwood deck chairs and hand-laid Italian mosaic tile on the walls and in the pool are original. All designs are of a nautical theme
My final stop across the street from the Biltmore Hotel was the Central Libray! The Richard Riordan Central Library, originally constructed in 1926, is a downtown Los Angeles landmark. It is the third largest public library in the United States in terms of book and periodical holdings. Originally simply the Central Library, the building was renamed in honor of the longtime president of the Board of Library Commissioners and President of the University of Southern California, Rufus B. von KleinSmid. The building was subsequently renamed in 2001 after Los Angeles Mayor Richard Riordan.
Architect Bertram Grosvenor Goodhue designed the original Los Angeles Central Library to mimic the architecture of ancient Egypt. The central tower is topped with a tiled mosaic pyramid with suns on either side with a hand holding a torch representing the "Light of Learning" at the apex. Other elements include sphinxes, snakes and celestial mosaics. It has similarities to the Nebraska State Capitol in Lincoln, Nebraska also designed by Goodhue and which also featured sculpture by the architectural sculptor Lee Lawrie It was extensively renovated and expanded in a "Modernist/Beaux Arts style" (according to the principal architect of the renovation Norman Pfeiffer) from 1988 through 1993, including an enormous, eight-story atrium dedicated to former mayor Tom Bradley. The interior of the library is decorated with various figures, statues, chandeliers, and grilles, notably a four-part mural by illustrator Dean Cornwell depicting stages of the history of California.
The building's limited access had caused a number of problems. Generally, the accessible public stacks in the reading rooms only displayed about 10-20% of the actual collections of the Central Library. The catalyst for the renovation was the devastating arson fire of April 29, 1986. Although the building was safely evacuated, its vintage construction precluded the ventilation of heat and smoke, and limited firefighter access. Some 400,000 volumes—20 percent of the library's holdings—were destroyed, with significant water and smoke damage done to the surviving works. A second fire on September 3 of the same year destroyed the contents of the Music Department Reading Room.
The Library's renovation was completed in 1993. The Central Library reopened on October 3, 1993. Clearly a case of a good coming out of a tragedy.
Aside from containing such a large collection of books and media, the library also houses some incredible art work and provides walking tours of the grounds. You can also print out the self guided tour and map of the library.
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Monday, 01 March 2010 |
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I love going to Disneyland and have visited the park many times over the years. In fact, Disneyland was one of the “trips of the week” in June 2009. But visiting the park can be a pricey adventure with parking, admission, food, and merchandise. But a cheap alternative and with some of the ambiance of actually going to the park is Downtown Disney. Sitting in the middle of the Disneyland Resort in Anaheim, Downtown Disney is a shopping, dining and entertainment complex. With stores, restaurants, street performers, a twelve-screen movie theater, ESPN Zone and the House of Blues, it offers plenty to do, and it's a good place to round out your Disneyland vacation with a dash of something different. Downtown Disney is outside the theme parks, open to the public, and there is no admission charge. If you want to eat, shop or go to the movies here, the first three hours of parking are free, and you can get two more hours free with validation from the movie theatre or any sit-down restaurant. When I visit the Disneyland Resort, I like to go to Downtown Disney for a meal. It gives a chance to get away from the crowds for a while, and you can get better value for your dining dollars. Get your hand stamped as you leave and save your pass card for an easy return. Downtown Disney restaurants include the Rainforest Cafe (a favorite of kids of all ages), House of Blues, Brennan's Jazz Kitchen, Naples Ristorante e Pizzeria and Catal Restaurant. If don't want to wait for a table, but don't want to make do with a pretzel and lemonade either, try the Uva Bar. Disney makes an effort to bring unique shops into the Downtown Disney area. Most of the items sold fall into the category of home decoration, jewelry or toys. Younger children may enjoy a visit to Build-a-Bear Workshop. Their Disney store is close to a city block long, but if you are looking for real collector's items, you'll find better choices inside the theme parks If the two theme parks don't keep you entertained enough, you can indulge your inner jock at ESPN Zone, catch a movie at the AMC theatre (good way to rest those tired feet), or enjoy a musical performance or Jazz Brunch at House of Blues. If you'd like to see the Disneyland fireworks while you're here but aren't going into the park, just follow the signs from Downtown Disney that mark the walking route to the Mickey and Friends parking lot. Go to the lot's top floor and you'll get a great view of both the fireworks at the castle and the ones at the Fantasmic show. So if your local or visiting and want a flavor of Disney without the rides, lines, and prices…Downtown Disney is a good alternative for some Disney Ambiance, catching a movie, having a meal and doing some shopping.
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Sunday, 20 September 2009 |
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I’ve been to all 21 California Missions. However, a few of the missions have “asistencias” or assistant missions. These are less known and less traveled. This week I visited one of these assistant missions in Pala, California on the Native American Reservation for the Tribe of Pala. Not only is it restored as well as most other missions, and better than some, but it is still in active use and expanding. The newly completed casino along the main highway at the turnoff to the mission has generated revenue for the community and has brought more visitors to the mission. If you are interested in the mission story, this asistencia mission should be included in your travels. While I personally don't gamble, if you are inclined to gaming and want to combine a casino trip and a trip to a mission, Mission Pala is the solution. Because of its isolated location and because Mission Pala is not well know, it was uncrowded and peaceful. Mission San Antonio de Pala was established by Father Antonio Peyri, OFM, on June 13, 1816 as one of the "asistencia" (Extension or sub-mission) Missions to Mission San Luis Rey de Francia. Three mission asistencias were built in the San Diego district. Mission Pala is still in active service and is the only Mission to have remained in continuous service as was originally established ministering a native population. Santa Ysabel, an asistencia to Mission San Diego, is available for viewing about 30 miles southeast. There was once a plan to build a second chain of missions, this one more inland, of which Mission Pala and Santa Ysabel were to be a part. This second plan failed to receive civil approval, so San Luis Rey established asistencia or sub-missions under the administration of the "Mother" mission. Las Flores and Pala were asistencias to San Luis Rey. Mission Pala is a day's horse back ride east of Mission San Luis Rey. Mission Pala was named in honor of Saint Anthony of Padua, nicknamed, the "Wonderworker of the World." Three hundred miles north is another mission to Saint Anthony, Mission San Antonio de Padua. In August of 1795, Father Juan Mariner of Mission San Diego, explored the back-country of San Diego County looking for a possible site for a new mission. Father Mariner recommended a site in the Pala Valley because of an abundance of water and his regard for the Indian population. Pala was selected for the site, but then it was decided to locate the mission closer to the coast, and thus, San Luis Rey de Francia was founded in its current location.
Mission San Luis Rey expanded its influence north and east, including the Pala Valley. Mission San Luis Rey's first record of construction at Rancho de Pala was in the annual report of 1810. This construction was a granary and other buildings soon followed. As Mission San Luis Rey began to flourish, Father Peyri felt it was necessity to establish an asistencia near Pala because it was the natural congregating place for a large native population. A chapel was built in 1816.
Within two short years, the quadrangle was complete, two granaries were built, and two apartments were built, one for men and boys and one for women and girls. By 1818, a small town had began. Father Peyri had an aqueduct built to supply water to the mission. By 1821, the mission only lacked a resident priest to make the asistencia a full mission. Mission Pala had reached its peak prosperity by 1827 when Father Peyri described Mission Pala, "At a distance of seven leagues toward the northeast, ... (San Luis Rey) has a station called San Antonio de Pala with a church, dwellings, and granaries and with a few fields where wheat, corn, beans, garbonzoes, and other leguminous plants are grown. There is also a vineyard and an orchard of various fruits and olives, for which there is sufficient irrigation..."
Secularization came to the asistencis in the mid 1830s and as at other missions, Pala began a decline. On August 22, 1835, Mission San Luis Rey and Mission San Antonio de Pala were turned over to Pio Pico and Pablo de la Portilla, two commissioners appointed by Governor Figueroa. Because of Pala's remote location, the Indians were able to maintain the chapel and grounds for a time, but eventually the condition of the Indians deteriorated and by 1840, their condition was described at "pitiable." Also in 1840, Pio Pico was relieved of his office as administer of San Luis Rey and its properties. He refused to relinquish possession of the missions which resulted in a violent opposition by the Indians. On May 18, 1846, fearing a United States conquest of California, Pio Pico sold Rancho de Pala and Mission San Luis Rey to Antonio J. Cot and Jose A. Pico. The U.S. government later ruled the sale null and void.
The Franciscans abandoned all the missions except Sant Barbara and they fell into disrepair and were stripped for building material. The priests and Indians managed to keep the chapel in repair throughout the remainder of the 1800s. The chapel and west wing of the quadrangle never suffered as much deterioration as at other missions and much of the original material remains. In September 1885, Reverend Jose Mut of Mission San Juan Capistrano visited Pala and recorded the spending $214.67 for repairs to Mission Pala. William Veal received a patent to the lands and buildings of Papa Asistencia which irritated the Indians. His Catholic wife persuaded im to give the chapel, two rooms, and the cemetery to the church.
On Christmas Day in 1899, an earthquake damaged the chapel which was repaired by the local residents with help from the Landmarks Club of Southern California. The Landmarks Club acquired the remaining land and buildings and returned the mission to the Catholic Church in 1902. In 1902, Congress bought 3500 acres of land to establish a permanent reservation. In 1903, the US Government relocated the Cupeños Indians from Warner Hot Springs to Pala. The two groups worked together to restore the mission. The mission now sits on the Pala Reservation. A flood damaged the campanile (bell tower) in 1916 when the adobe base was undermined which resulted in the collapse of the structure. The tower was quickly repaired in time for the centennial of the mission's original founding.
In 1948, The Sons of the Sacred Heart, also known as Verona Fathers, also referred to as The Camboni Fathers, assumed responsibility for Mission Pala. In 1954, Father Januarius Carillo began a restoration of the quadrangle. The restoration was completed n 1959. The restoration was declared the most faithful of the California missions. In May of 1991, the Mission was returned to the Diocese of San Diego. As of June 1996 the Barnabite Fathers are in charge of the Pala Mission. Termite damage to the chapel was repaired in 1992. In 1958, the Pala Mission School began under the direction of the Sisters of the Blessed Sacrament and Sisters of the Precious Blood. Today the school is a Charter School of the Bonsall Union School District, no longer a Catholic School.
Mission Pala is unique in having the only free-standing bell tower or campanile. It is believed to be inspired by a tower in Ciudad Juarez, Mexico. The graceful curves of the tower contrast to the straight lines of the quadrangle. The tower is about 50 feet tall, including the 15 foot base and topped with a cross and a cactus. The larger (lower) of the two bells cast in Mexico is dedicated to Saint Francis of Assisi, San Luis King, Saint Clara, and Saint Eulalia. The smaller (upper) bell is dedicated to Jesus and Mary. Mission Pala is know for being mission with a free-standing bell tower. The local people were proud of their campanile and kept it in good repair throughout the hard times. The original campanile was built on an adobe base which was undermined by a flood in 1916 and collapsed. It was quickly rebuilt on a stone and concrete base. Behind the bell tower is the "Old Luiseno Cemetery" where hundreds of Native Americans are buried.
Atop the Bell Tower is a cactus. The legend of the cactus says that Father Peyri climbed the tower in 1816 to place a cross atop it to indicate that the construction of the Mission was now complete. He then planted a tiny cactus at the foot of the cross to symbolize that Christ would conquer the desert, not only of Southern California, but also of the human heart and soul. Another story tells of a bird filled with joy at nesting so close to the cross, burst into song and dropped a cactus seed into the still soft adobe The chapel measures 144 feet by 27 feet and is made of sun backed adobe brick, most are the original bricks. The floor is original but the roof has been replaced. The walls are covered with Indian art. The crucifix above the altar is of Bestardo wood from Michoacan, Mexico. The original artwork was covered by the restoration of 1903 but later restored by Indian artist Antonio Lugo. Some of the roof timbers are original and others are from the restoration of 1903. The timbers are from Palomar Mountasin, home to one of the most powerful telescopes in the world. Many of the roof tiles are original. Sometime in the mid-1900s, the wood altar, which had been damaged by termites, was replaced with a granite altar.
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Monday, 07 September 2009 |
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When I was younger I would visit my grandmother who spent her final years living in Culver City. At that time, I dreaded going to visit her and thought the city was run down and depressing. I hadn’t been back in a number of year but recently on my way to The Grove drove down Culver Blvd and was amazed at how downtown Culver City had been revitalized. Old historic building renovated and mixed with new chic café’s and boutiques. This weekend I decided to re-visit Culver City and learn more about it’s history. The Culver City home website had a detailed historic walking map which I used to explore some of the highlights on the walking tour. It was Harry H. Culver, from Milford, Nebraska, who dreamed of a balanced city. He started plans for the city that carries his name in 1913, and it became an incorporated entity in 1917. He established the city in a temperate zone, along a transportation route, alongside railroad tracks, halfway between the growing pueblo of Los Angeles and Abbot Kinney's resort of Venice. Culver City began to do the business of developing itself, as a 1.2 square mile area, centered about our little Main Street. In the early days of the city, the trustees concentrated on the actions necessary to form the city In the days of the early Spanish settlers, many were Catholic, and they attended Mass either at the Old Soldier's Home at Sawtelle, or they rode to St. Monica's in Santa Monica. Both were considerable trips by horse and buggy. As is the case in many California Cities, the church was the foundation of the new city. La Ballona Valley residents grew in number, and in 1883, a prominent landowner, J. Francisco Figueroa, donated acreage to the Diocese of Los Angeles for the construction of a new mission church. That little white wood frame church faced Washington Boulevard, then a dirt road. This new church was served by priests from St. Monica's and was named St. Augustine for the son of St. Monica. Father Patrick Hawe, the pastor of St. Monica's, built the mission church and came to say Mass here. Participants grew in number and Father Hawe began to share duties with priests from St. James in Redondo Beach and St. Clement in Ocean Park. The mission church seated about 200. Culver City was incorporated in 1917, and two years later, it was necessary to appoint a permanent pastor for St. Augustine Parish, which then became a parish of the Monterey-Los Angeles Diocese. The first resident pastor was Father Thomas O'Toole, starting November 30, 1919. During Father O'Toole's two year tenure as pastor, he built the first rectory (priest's house), which was moved to Jean Place in 1926 for a convent. Each subsequent pastor added something for which he was remembered. In 1922, the pastor enlarged the church to seat 500. In 1926, the little parish hall was converted into a four-room schoolhouse, and a new stucco rectory was built. The Daughters of Mary and Joseph were invited that year to staff the school. They arrived on the feast of St. Augustine, August 28. The staff of six sisters opened St. Augustine School within two weeks with an initial enrollment of 123. In 1936, a new St. Augustine Church was constructed with a seating capacity of 700, on Washington after the old church was moved back. Erected by noted churchbuilder Don Ely, the birdcage-like steel frame caused a stir as it was woven into a single unit. Ely also built the American Legion Building, now Brotman Medical Center's Glantz Auditorium on Hughes. The new church was dedicated in April, 1937 by Archbishop John J. Cantwell of Los Angeles. The pastor, Father O'Donnell, often acted as a technical advisor to M-G-M Studios across the street. The studio helped the church raise funds by putting up tents for the annual barbecue, and the Machado family cooked the beef. In 1947, a new school was completed, replacing the old bungalows with reinforced concrete, and the year after, a new convent was constructed. Father James McLaughlin (later Monsignor) became the pastor in 1949, and he not only added to the school, but he supervised the building of the new church. Constructed by Theisen & Co. from Pasadena, that American Gothic design was 14,000 square feet, and it was built to accommodate 1,070 parishoners. He opened the doors as a surprise on Christmas morning, 1957. The current church was officially dedicated six months later by James Francis Cardinal McIntyre, Archbishop of Los Angeles on June 22, 1958 with standing room only. Throngs of dignitaries and locals attended the ceremony after hearing that a famous radio and television personality, Bishop Fulton J. Sheen, was coming from the East to preach. Bishop Sheen and Monsignor McLaughlin attended the seminary together. The little mission chapel in La Ballona Valley is no longer there, but the second church is used as a parish hall, alongside the new church. In addition to regular church work, the parish sponsors S.A.V.E.S, St. Augustine Volunteers for Emergency Services, a nondenominational entity that helps those in need. Our irregular boundaries include St. Augustine's Church in Culver City, while the school sits in Los Angeles. The next stop on the walking tour was The Ivy Substation. The Ivy Substation was constructed in 1907 by the Los Angeles Pacific Railway, which became part of the Los Angeles Pacific Railway Electric Company. It operated as one of its largest electric substations as a branch for the electrical generation and distribution system. Electricity was transformed and distributed to create the power for the electric railway system. The substation received alternating current (AC) and transformed it into direct current (DC) for use by the electric trains. This substation was located along the "Balloon Route" rail line from downtown Los Angeles to the Pacific Ocean.
When real estate developer Harry Culver searched the area for land to establish his city, an important factor was transportation. The Ivy Substation played a role, and although it was not the depot as many have thought, it supplied the power. By the time Culver City began to materialize, one could catch a "Red Car" downtown to Los Angeles, or to Abbot Kinney's resort of Venice. By 1954, the historic Mission Revival style building stood empty and eventually the weathered structure became a haven for transients. In the mid 1970's, David Cameron, a noted railroad historian, realized that the building must be protected or it would face demolition. Cameron, also a member of the Culver City Historical Society, lobbied to place the Ivy Substation on the National Register of Historic Places which happened in 1981. His successful campaign saved the structure from demolition by the Caltrans Venice Boulevard Improvement Project. Ivy is also designated as Los Angeles Historic-Cultural Monument #182. (Note plaque inside.) Although the structure is actually in Los Angeles, it appears as a gateway to Culver City. Recognizing this, the Culver City Redevelopment Agency entered into a 40-year lease with the City of Los Angeles in 1987 with the option of a ten year renewal. This contract also included adjacent Media Park, named in a contest sponsored by our city's founder, Harry Culver. The winning entry was submitted by a pharmacist in nearby Palms, and his prize was a trip around the world! The renovation of the building and park was funded by the Culver City Redevelopment Agency, with significant support from current and past Los Angeles Conservancy members Robert Burke and David Cameron. Los Angeles retained jurisdiction over the properties with review by the Los Angeles Cultural Affairs Department, and the Cultural Heritage and Cultural Affairs Commission. This also assured that the renovation would comply with the standards established by the U. S. Secretary of the Interior. Design and construction plans were prepared by Architect Milford Wayne Donaldson, FAIA. The work, by contractor Driver Eddy Construction Co., included asbestos abatement, lead-based paint removal, seismic strengthening of the original brick building, installation of replicated historic power poles and wires and the artistic cooling fountain, provision of utility services and ancillary facilities, non-intrusive disabled access modifications and landscaping improvements to the adjacent park grounds. Susan Berg was the CCRA project manager. The Ivy Substation re-opened in a week of celebration in April of 1993, featuring free events for all segments of the community. Since that time, it has been used as a venue for a variety of entertainment events, meetings and parties After Eugene and Kitty Donovan purchased the land at 9355 Culver Boulevard, they chose the architectural firm of Orville E. Clark to design the Citizen Building, with Mrs. Donovan's input. Natives of San Francisco, the Donovans, survived the great earthquake and fire of 1906, and built the Citizen to San Francisco's earthquake building codes since Southern California had yet to adopt guidelines. In 1928, the firm of O'Hanlon and Flansburg began construction on the Citizen. Eugene Donovan's final instructions before work began were reportedly "wherever possible, all materials, supplies and labor will be obtained from local sources in Culver City." Construction was complete in 1929 at a cost of $80,000, which included furnishings. The News Printing Company that had been established in 1923 under the management of Eugene Donovan's son, Roy E., and the Western Citizen, founded by Eugene Donovan, were consolidated into the Citizen Publishers and Printers in this new building. Before, the Donovan's business had been located across the street, and initially, around the corner on Bagley. The "new" 20-page edition of The Citizen was printed December 6, 1929, in its all-new modern plant. The newspaper was "dedicated in perpetuity to the service of the people that no good cause shall lack a champion and that evil shall not thrive unopposed". On January 1, 1930, the Donovans hosted a public opening for more than 2,000 guests in the Citizen's new home. The Donovans' dream of a completely self-contained, successful hometown newspaper, and commercial printing plant, became a reality in seven short years. Their accounts included Thomas Ince, Hal Roach, Metro-Goldwyn-Mayer, Selznick, R.K.O. Pathe and DeMille Studios. The award-winning Citizen was a dynamic force in the development of the community, better government, business, recreational facilities, adequate streets, lighting and other projects that factor into an ideal modern community. Donovan championed battles for adequate bus transportation, the modernization and improvement of the Fire and Police Departments, beneficial zoning regulations and was an advocate for the Chamber of Commerce. It recorded Culver City's history. In 1934, before the Hollywood and Culver City Chambers of Commerce 'buried the hatchet', Donovan ran a contest to re-name Culver City, since movie credits at that time did not reflect "Made in Culver City." Entries for the $10 prize included names like "Cinema City" and "Filmville." Needless to say, the city retained its Culver City name. Eugene Donovan learned printing and publishing in his native San Francisco. He was the managing editor of the Reno Gazette and was affiliated at various times with the Call, Examiner and other San Francisco dailies before he moved to Southern California. Before he established his own newspaper in Culver City, Donovan was the publisher and managing editor of the Culver City Daily News. Eugene and Catherine Donovan both died in 1948, survived by their son and grandson. The Citizen building remained a family-owned business with grandson Roy L. Donovan still active in the community until its sale in the late 1990s, when it was purchased by Josetta Sbeglia, whose family came from the east with a history of historic renovation. The Citizen building was marked by the Culver City Historical Society as Historic Site Number 4 in 1984. In 1987, it became the first structure in Culver City to be placed on the National Register of Historic Places. It also has Landmark Status by action of the City Council. The Citizen Building is known for its fusion of Beaux Arts classical elements and Art Deco. Other examples of this type architecture in the Downtown area, like the 1928 City Hall and Fire Station No. 1, were demolished. After Culver City incorporated in 1917, the City Trustees went about the business of legislating for city operation. One such action in 1919, Resolution No. 57, appointed Dr. Foster Hull as the second City Health Officer, replacing Dr. Mortensen. The Hull Building was built by the same Dr. Hull in 1925 to be the first hospital in Culver City. It became a victim of the Depression in the 1930s but was acquired by Louis Freeman, whose family still retains ownership. Although the uses have changed numerous times over the years, the Hull Building retains most of its original character. Its many occupants have included Freeman Furniture, the Sunset Drug, Ed Tinger's Culver City Flowers, Al Simon's Sada's Flowers, Kamin's Shoes, a boarding house on the second floor, the Bank of Orange County, and Italian restaurants-Riccardo's Restaurant, Bella Pasta and San Gennaro. Office space over the years housed Dauber Security and space for production companies, including Sony Pictures. Many have fond recollections of Joe Wellington who owned Sunset Drugs after Chudacoff. That corner drug store had a soda fountain where young people like Clarita Marquez Young learned to make and serve the most popular drink: Coca-Colas. By Council action, the Hull Building was awarded Landmark status under Chapter 38 of the Municipal Code, which deals with Historic Preservation. The outside of the structure is protected, although it probably would not be a candidate for the National Register of Historic Places due to the alterations of the windows. There has been an approved alteration, which required a Certificate of Appropriateness in 1997. The architecture is recognized as Neo-Classical in style, with construction materials of tan and rose colored brick. Fortunately, the Bank of Orange County, a tenant in 1978, gutted the Hull Building to bring it up to earthquake standards. This explains its minimal damage from the 1994 Northridge Earthquake. Some bricks dislodged and fell during the temblor. Coincidentally, there was a building in the block west of The Culver Studios,with brick. That structure was being demolished for the construction of the new Culver Studios Office Building. With careful examination by owner Sony Pictures, it was determined that the bricks were not only similar, but made by the same manufacturer as those in the Hull Building. Sony Pictures saved enough brick for the Freeman family to make the needed repairs. The Hull Building was recognized by the Culver City Historical Society as Historic Site Number Two as you can see by the plaque on the building. Louis Freeman's son, Bert Freeman, was in attendance at the marking and his grandson, Stu Freeman of Freeman Property Management, took over from his father. The Washington Building was commissioned by Charles E. Lindblade. Its two- year construction began in 1926. Lindblade, for whom a Culver City street was named, was a business associate of the city's founder, Harry H. Culver. The master builders were Orlopp and Orlopp, who were listed on site in 1927. The building designer was Arthur D. Scholz, with Orville L. Clark mentioned in old records as the probable consulting architect. Clark went on to design other local buildings, like Culver City's 1928 City Hall and the Fire Station next door. The Washington Building was described by Carson Anderson in the owner's application for the National Register of Historic Places, as "Builder's Beaux Arts Classicism." The foundation and walls are both reinforced concrete. Anderson felt the areas of significance of the building fell into the categories of Architecture, Commerce and Community Planning and Development. The period of significance on the form was considered to be 1926-1940, with Lindblade listed as the significant person. Lindblade(1887-1940), a real estate developer, served both as vice-president and president of Harry Culver's real estate firm. This building was constructed during Lindblade's most notable years, professionally, when he and Culver actively developed Culver City. These also appear to be his most visible years in the community. Some of his activities listed in the 1929 Who's Who in California included service as a director of Security First National Bank of Los Angeles, Pacific Building and Loan Association, (which financed much of the city's early development), and he also served on the board of the Pacific Military Academy. Lindblade was a founding member of the Culver City Chamber of Commerce, and he served as president of the Culver City Realty Board in 1927, and director of the California Real Estate Association (1928-29). He and his wife ,Joan Fox Lindblade, lived in nearby Cheviot Hills. He later worked with Earl Eastham's real estate company. Eastham was Culver's brother in law. The Washington Building reportedly cost $30,000 at construction. Its triangular shape earned its nickname "The Flatiron Building," although it is only two stories tall, unlike the famous tall one in New York. The structure occupies 135 feet of Washington Boulevard frontage, stretching 152 feet along Culver Boulevard. The two long sides converge to a flattened east wall of 12 feet (where Starbucks is located), while the west wall measures 68 feet wide. In 1931, the Washington Building housed the local post office, until the Gateway Station was completed down the street in 1940. Other notable occupants of the building included the Draft Board during World War II, the MGM Fan Club after the war, a dentist named Dr. Connelly, the American National Insurance Co., an attorney named F. A. Berry, a photographer named Chester Graves, and the Lindblade Real Estate and Development Company from 1929-1932. The Washington Building was awarded Landmark status by the City of Culver City in accordance to Chapter 38, C.C.M.C., which protects and preserves its exterior. It is also on the National Register of Historic Places, as are Culver City's Culver Hotel, the Citizen Building and the nearby Ivy Substation. The Culver Hotel opened in 1924 to headlines in the September 4th Culver City daily news: "City packed with visitors for opening of Culver skyscraper." It has remained a fixture in Culver City for over eighty years, drawing guests from nearby and all over the world. The six-story hotel, then named the Hotel Hunt, was called the "latest monument to his vision," referring to Harry Culver himself. It was built on the land that originally held the first theater in Culver City, called the Meratta Theater which is no longer in existence. This theater also held the first city offices that were relocated once construction began. The hotel incorporated the offices of Mr. Culver and has hosted several well-known casts from movies like Gone With the Wind and The Wizard of Oz. It was built on property in the center of downtown, on what has been called "the shortest Main St. in the USA." The exterior of the building has remained much the same though the signage in front has changed often with each new owner. The hotel has also appeared in such favorites such as The Little Rascals, The Laurel and Hardy Classics, and eventually more modern day shows such as The Wonder Years and 7th Heaven. Though a luxury property for its day, the Culver Hotel, at that time, would have disastrously failed today's standards of health and safety. Only one bathroom per floor existed at the hotel's birth, creating a frantic morning scene with guests piling into the bathrooms for facial grooming, hair washing and toilet matters all at once. In the later 20th century this problem. as well as many other architectural atrocities, would be solved by Lou Catlett who converted several of the sixty six rooms into forty six rooms with private baths. Mr. Catlett can actually be credited with uplifting the Culver from realtors, who through speculation, had allowed the hotel to deteriorate. Investing vast sums of money by importing antique furniture from England, restructuring parts of the hotel to meet health codes, and breathing fresh air into the very walls themselves, Lou Catlett rescued the hotel only to become bankrupt for his efforts. The Culver Hotel has, to this day, remained the most prominent building in downtown Culver City. Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, it retains its historical prestige and nostalgic memories of days long past. Several plaques dedicated to the historical significance of the building can be found hanging on its magnificent exterior. Along with the reopening of the Culver Hotel 1997 was the return of the Munchkin cast, an event sponsored by Beyond the Rainbow. Six of the original Munchkins received a warm welcome from the Culver City officials as they entered the grand lobby and shared their remembrances with the representatives of the Culver City Historical Society. It has been said that the returning Munchkins were awoken the morning after their first night to music and festivities that took the form of a parade outside their window. Ecstatic that the city would honor them in this way they were crestfallen to learn that the festivities were actually in honor of the Armistice Day Parade. Interviews were conducted as the Munchkins reminisced about the costumes, makeup and lights, as well as what it was like to work with Judy Garland, Margaret Hamilton and Billie Burke. Clark Gable, Greta Garbo, Joan Crawford, Red Skelton, Buster Keaton, Ronald Reagan and other well-known stars maintained part time residences within the classic walls of the Culver Hotel. It increased in fame as MGM began filming The Wizard of Oz when nearly all of the one hundred and twenty four "little people" spent four weeks at the hotel. Legend had it that a secret underground tunnel was built to usher the munchkins to their set at the Culver Studio, as well as to ferry alcohol and women during the Prohibition Era, though the "secret" tunnel was actually a well-used underground pathway for pedestrians to cross the tiny but busy boulevard that once separated the hotel from Culver Studios. Wild tales and stories that emerged from these four weeks of filming helped to inspire the 1981 movie comedy starring Chevy Chase and Carrie Fisher called "Under the Rainbow." The producers actually used the Culver Hotel as a site for this fictional making-of-Oz story. Part and parcel with the rich history of the Culver Hotel is the even more enticing legends that surround its ownership. It has been said that the famous Charlie Chaplin once owned the Culver Hotel, but sold it to the "Duke," Mr. John Wayne, for a dollar in a poker game. Another tale is that Mr. Wayne was propositioned by the Black Panthers for ownership of the Hotel, but adamantly refused their offer, leading the Panthers to move their operations to San Francisco. Mr. Wayne late donatedtheCulvertotheYMCA. The Culver Hotel was restored to its original glory in the 1990s, with a renovation of the rooms that included individual baths and antique furnishings. The halls were hung with nostalgic scenes from old Hollywood and 1900s impressionist paintings, and the lobby and bar were retrofitted in early-1900s style moldings and dark woods. Since the 1990s the hotel has undergone several new owners, finally landing in the hands of an independent family with plans on furthering the renovation in hopes of restoring the classic ambiance to the luxurious standards of its initial conception. |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Sunday, 02 August 2009 |
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Finally, I got to take a break from the mundane day to day life for a three day, two night get away to Oceanside, California. I’ve driven through Oceanside literally a hundred times on my way back and forth from San Diego but have never really stopped to enjoy this seaside community or explore what it had to offer. Suprisingly there was a lot to do filled with rich history and off beat attractions. Of course I always love the off beat, road less traveled mixed with a little history so I’ll cover some of the highlights. Oceanside To begin with, Oceanside was the “epicenter” of my destination and where I spent my several nights. Oceanside is at the southern end of the Marine Base Camp Pendleton. Oceanside's first inhabitants were the Luiseno Indians who were part of the large Shoshonean tribe. They inhabited the San Luis Rey river valley area, originally named, "Rio San Luis Rey de Francia," after St. Louis King of France by the Franciscan friars who passed through the valley in 1769. The Mission San Luis Rey de Francia was established in 1798, four miles up river from the coast. The Indians who were gathered at the Mission were called "San Luisenos" by the Franciscans, later shortened to "Luisenos". The Luisenos were hunters and food gatherers until the friars taught them farming and other trades. The Indians were instrumental in building the Mission compound as they provided the labor. The Indians soon adopted the Spanish language and customs.
Among these padres was Father Antonio Peyri who planned and oversaw the construction of the Mission's many buildings which included three churches, the last of which still stands and was finished in 0ctober of 1815. Mission San Luis Rey was the largest building in California when completed and was the most prosperous of the missions
In 1834, formal secularization took place. All the Mission properties were confiscated by Pio Pico, governor of California, and sold for $2,437.50. During this period, the Mission buildings fell into disrepair. In 1893, Father Joseph Jeremiah 0'Keefe arrived to restore the Mission. By 1912, when he retired, restoration in great part was complete, but, still continues today.
A township, known as San Luis Rey, which was west of the Mission, was established in the early 1870's and was largely inhabited by a group of English settlers, by 1884, San Luis Rey had a post office, stores, a hotel, and a weekly newspaper, The San Luis Rey Star, which later moved to Oceanside.
In 1881 the United States Government conducted a survey of the Southern Pacific slope and in 1882 a railroad was laid from Los Angeles to San Diego through Colton, Temecula, Fallbrook and down the coast. Andrew Jackson Myers relocated to the San Luis Rey township in 1881. In 1883, he applied for a Homestead Grant on the Oceanside mesa and he was allotted 160 acres. Cave J. Couts, Jr. surveyed the town site and J. Chauncey Hayes sold the town lots. Myers is known as the founder of Oceanside as he owned the first land and was said to built the first house.
J. Chauncey Hayes was not only the real estate agent but Justice of Peace and the editor of his own newspaper, The South Oceanside Diamond.
By 1887, the Bank of Oceanside was built on the comer of Second (Mission Avenue) and Hill Streets and also a grand hotel, the South Pacific, located on Third and Pacific Streets, near the present pier. A wharf company was formed and soundings were made at the location of what is now known as Wisconsin street. The wharf was made entirely of wooden pilings, the first pile being driven May 12, 1888. On July 3, 1888, Oceanside was incorporated with a vote of 74 to 53. The founder of the city, A. J. Myers, was the first to vote. The population was about l000.
In the winter of 1890-91, the wharf was destroyed by a storm and Melchoir Pieper, the proprietor of the South Pacific Hotel, salvaged most of the lumber. He took the pilings to his hotel on Third Street where he kept it until the city appropriated funds for a new pier in 1893. Not only donating the lumber, through his efforts, Pieper was responsible for the pier being located at Third Street. This second pier was the first of five built at the Third street location, including the one recently completed in 1987.
In the 1890's Oceanside had three hotels; the South Pacific, the St. Cloud and the Tremont, two drug stores, two livery stables, two blacksmiths, a hardware store, a bakery, a harness shop, a lumber yard, a barber shop, a newspaper, a school and the Oceanside Bank along with many other businesses. There were six churches: Christian, Congregational, Baptist, Episcopal, Holiness and Methodist.
Like many towns, Oceanside's prosperity relied much on real estate booms and busts. The railroads played an important role in the continuing development of our city. During the boom years the trains brought thousands of prospective buyers. This continued until a highway was paved between San Diego and Los Angeles through 0ceansidc before 1920. In the 1920's the city prospered. Tent City was established, street lights were installed, a new golf course was laid out and a grand new theater, "The Palomar', was built. Many noteworthy visitors enjoyed this shore, including Mary Pickford and Douglas Fairbanks. A number of movies were filmed here during this decade. This prosperity soon changed and felt the grip of the "Great Depression."
A dramatic change occurred with the purchase of the Santa Margarita y Los Flores by the U. S. Government for a military base. The building of Camp Joseph H. Pendleton created a boom to end all booms in the sleepy little town. In no time workers flocked to downtown for food and lodging. It was common to see thirty or forty people waiting outside restaurants to eat. The community geared up for war in a big way by supporting the workers and troops. Ocenaside continued to urbanize into the 1950's bringing it to a population of 20,000 in 1953. The growth has continued steadily ever since is now over 150,000 people.
Mission San Luis Rey I’ve been to all 21 missions and returned to this “King of the Missions”. San Luis Rey de Francia, "King of Missions," was the eighteenth of the Franciscan establishments in California; and the second founded in what is now the County of San Diego-second therefore on El Camino Real. In respect of artistry, grandeur and general prosperity it long stood preeminent. Even today the refinement and wide culture of its founder, Fr. Lasuen, and of its first superior, Fr. Antonio Peyri, seem to pervade corridor, patio, garden and churchyard. One feels that very rare souls built and by their lives forever blessed this great spiritual enterprise. Fifty-four Indians were baptized June 13, 1798, the day Mission San Luis Rey site was dedicated. In July a thousand adobe bricks were ready for the first permanent structure. The church was Of adobe, faced with burnt brick, 30 feet by 189 feet, roofed with "tile of clay." The mortuary chapel was unique among the early churches.
In 1818 San Luis Rey with its six mission ranches, Pala, Santa Margarita, San Jacinto, Santa Ysabel, Temecula and San Pedro, was at the height of its prosperity; the richest, the most populous of all such establishments in California. Strife engendered by Mexican innovations warned Fr. Peyri, who at sixty-seven years of age, was still in charge, that with secularization the missions would be ruined. Discouraged, he retired; sailing from San Diego on the Pocahontas January 17, 1832. Luisenos demonstrated their affection for him by following down to the bay shore, two even swimming out to the ship and sailing away, forever lost to their former homes.
At San Luis Rey, as at Mission San Diego, American troops, including a part of the Mormon battalion, were quartered at the close of the Mexican war; animals having been stabled in the very church.
Before he went away Fr. Peyri planted certain seeds which had been given him by a sailor who could explain only that they came from South America. They sprouted vigorously and after being transplanted grew quickly into tall saplings - the first "pepper" (schinus molle) trees in California. A row stood outside the cloister at San Luis Rey, but were destroyed by mules and horses. One single tree of Father Peyri's planting still grows in the west enclosure, a part of the old garden, a real pioneer among California trees. After the withdrawal of the troops San Luis Rey fell into decay; the little village of the same name, famous for "poker bets and large drinks," grew up nearby. In 1931 restoration of the mission buildings was begun, with the result that they are today, in charge again of Franciscans, among the finest remaining examoples of early mission architecture. The two gargoyle fountains, unearthed in a neighboring swamp, have been pronounced the only specimens of western Indian sculpture.
Heritage Park
Nestled right behind the Mission San Luis Rey is one of Oceanside’s best-kept secrets; so well-kept that many visitors happen upon it only by taking a wrong turn on the way to the Mission. Heritage Park was constructed in 1976 as a tribute to the memory of Oceanside’s history and is home to many of the city’s original buildings. The old Blade building the first home of the Oceanside newspaper (which became the Blade Tribune, the Blade Citizen, and then merged with the North County Times), is still equipped with a printing press from the 1800s. On the weekends, and upon request, the fully functioning newsroom can be fired up for a demonstration. Also located in the park is the original Libby School as it appeared when it was last used in 1893. The school is furnished with relics of a 19th century classroom, along with pictures of the graduating classes from that time period. Both the Blade building and the Libby School were literally picked up and moved from their original locations in downtown Oceanside and on Douglas Street, respectively. Additionally, Heritage Park includes the 1886 Johansen building, which features period-specific clothing and furniture, a saloon complete with a fully costumed saloon-keeper, a concrete jail with a cell and sheriff clad in a complete uniform: spurs, gun, and a 10-gallon hat. Ice creak sundaes and soda can be found for a dollar each at the park’s Soda Bar. Heritage Park Village and Museum, situated at 220 Peyru Road, just off El Camino Real, originally was a highway stop en route to Los Angeles from San Diego. The general store, blacksmith, and doctor’s buildings are all facades set against the original repair shops and are made to look like the Oceanside of the late 1800s. Along with the Blade building, Libby School, and Johansen buildings, visitors can get a real feel for the city’s history as they walk through the park. Heritage Park is free and open to the public from 9 a.m. to 4 p.m. daily. The buildings are open for tours on Sundays from 1 to 3 p.m. and by request. Café 101 I love old highways. Of course, Route 66 is the most famous of them all. But Highway 101 is a beautiful drive along the California Coast from San Diego to San Francisco. But many portions of the old highway have given way to the interstate. But in Oceanside, the old Hwy 101 still remains and a corner café capture the era of a time gone by. The 101 Cafe began its life as a small 20-seat diner in 1928, opened by the Ekegren family. It was just the small dining room where the counters are now. As today, the restaurant was noted for its breakfast, which is still served all day. The Cafe was named for the old highway which it fronted Highway 101. The Greyhound bus stopped right in front until the 1940's when a bus station was located downtown. The diner enjoyed the traffic generated by Highway 101, which was the main access from Los Angeles to San Diego until 1953 when Highway 101 was relocated to the present location of Interstate 5. This changed the nature of the business. During this time a local businessman had the foresight to adapt to the change. Lucky Lackey, the businessman, added the overhang around the building as it now exists. He found a successful restaurateur in John "Bushie" Graham to operate the latest in eateries, a drive-in called "Grahams" and ran it quite successfully until the early 1970's. Graham also ran two other drive-ins in Oceanside, located at Seventh and Hill Streets and Clementine and Mission Avenue. Grahams' reputation as a hot spot for local teenagers spread far and wide. When the new drive-throughs like McDonald's began to rise to prominence, drive-ins no longer prospered. Graham adapted by selling to-go items and changed the format to a coffee shop All along, the Cafe has been a favorite of locals and tourists looking for friendly service and great food. About 10 years later, a new owner changed the name to Randy's Coffee Shop. The café was then changed back to the original name and is the oldest resturaunt in town.
Self Realization Fellowship, Encinitas
My last day, I ventured a few miles south of Oceanside pass Carlsbad to another quaint seaside community named Encinitas. In Encinitas is the Self Realization Fellowship which I had heard about and wanted to explore in my constant quest for philosophy, religion, and spirituality. Aside from that, it was an opportunity to get off the busy I-5 I usually take in transit to San Diego and tour along the old Route 101. The tall white walls and landmark golden lotus domes that guard the Self-Realization Fellowship's property make it seem it exotic, forbidding and exclusive. But behind them is a paradise that embraces all. Anyone can go inside the expansive meditation garden, walk to the edge of the bluff and watch migrating whales spout and white-capped surf fold toward shore. Close by, birds sing and colorful koi rest at the bottom of ponds surrounded by lush flowers, plants and trees.
Many people don't know about the garden. Even fewer understand the teachings of the fellowship's founder, Paramahansa Yogananda, who developed 17 acres into the main compound 70 years ago. Yet the influence of the Self-Realization Fellowship Temple and Ashram Center looms large in coastal North County.
It is an integral part of Encinitas' identity, and has a world-famous surfing spot, Swami's, named after it, taken from Yogananda's membership in the Swami Order.
The fellowship is one of the biggest landowners in the city, with about 35 acres of prime coastal real estate that extend from the domes at South Coast Highway 101 and K Street north to West J Street and east to Summit Avenue.
Although the Encinitas temple is familiar to most county residents, its religious activities and monks and nuns are largely shielded from the public.
Paramahansa Yogananda was born in 1893 to a prosperous Bengali family in Gorakhpur, India. After becoming a Hindu monk, he founded the Self-Realization Fellowship in 1920 to spread ideas about yoga and meditation.
When he came to Encinitas in 1937, he fell in love with the point where the main compound is today and built on it, Mridani said. While living there, Yogananda wrote “Autobiography of a Yogi,” published in 1946. Over the years, the fellowship acquired property nearby. Today, it has a temple and a bookstore on Second Street. The bookstore will move to a larger space the fellowship bought at South Coast Highway 101 and K Street, the former home of an auto parts store.
East of the train tracks, the fellowship owns a pumpkin patch and a produce garden roughly bordered by Vulcan Avenue, Santa Fe Drive, Summit and San Elijo avenues. The monks and nuns are vegetarians. Yogananda died in March 1952, or as his adherents describe it, “entered mahasamadhi, a God-illumined master's conscious exit from the body.” His fellowship has grown to 500 temples, retreats and meditation centers in more than 50 countries.
The Encinitas fellowship is also planning to grow. Mridani said they are working on a master plan for expansion and intend to build a larger retreat and a new temple.
And that brought me to an end on my adventure to Oceanside and the Old Route 101! I’ll never drive to San Diego with a reminder of this charming seaside village turned city
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Last Updated ( Sunday, 02 August 2009 )
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