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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Wednesday, 08 November 2006 |
Hello all! After I wrote last night....I met up with Oktay and Charles and we went to a Soccer game...like other countries...it is a huge sport here. Team Istanbul played Team Izmir...not that i'm a soccer fan ...it was fun and a bit wild. After we went out for lamb. I was able to get to bed at a more reasonable time of midnight. I am collecting so much information and stuff....that I should really get back on track with my travel writing and articles again. More so than this year. Istanbul has 16 million people...it is overwhelming. Last night they were explaining to me the difference between Suni and Shiite Muslims. also that Turkey will not be allowed to join the EU..they were supposed to in 2008 but it fell apart. They also explained the history of Turkey in brief...Friday november 10th is Ataturk Day...he was the one that secularized and made Turkey a republic in 1923. So tomorrow everything shuts down for a while for the commemoration. At Turkey's greatest point...it included The Baltic States, ARmenia, Iraq, Syria, Palestine. This morning I woke up and went to Topkaki Palace...what a great site! To be honest...i had never heard of it before and come to find out..it is one of those must see sites in the world. I got there early before the throngs of tourists got there. It was built in 1532 and was the royal palace of the Sultans. It was much different than the European Palaces. I visited the Harem Room, The room of the genies, the art galleries, etc. I think my highlight of the palace was the Holy Relic room...It contained the Sword of David, the Staff of Moses, the Turban of Joseph, The Tea Set of Abraham, and numerous items of Mohammed...including his tooth, hair, and his cloak. It was here that I learned more about Mohammed and the rise of Islam. After wandering the palace...i sat out on the veranda writing postcards, drinking coffee, and gazing at the Bosphoros the strip of water that connects the Sea of Marmara and the Black Sea. I then had to figure out how to get to Troy and gallipoli for tomorrow. As it turns out....I will be in Istanbul another day. Saturday i leave at 5:30 Am for Gallipoli....that is the peninsula..now a national cemetery and national park where fierce and bloody battles happend during World War One. The great part is that Saturday is November 11th...Armicist day...marking the end of WW I. They are having a big memorial service at the national cemetery where British, New Zealand, Australian, and Turks are buried. Should be interesting. Then Sunday I will go to Troy...to see the battle of Troy and the birthplace of Homer in 3000 bc! After making my arrangements for that part of the trip..i went shopping. If you think haggling and bartering is bad in latin america...it is even worse and more intense here. it is downright overwhelming to the point that i didn't even want to shop. But i did and in the end it was pretty fun. I then headed back to TAksim square, had coffee and people watched. Now is my unwind time before Charles and Oktay come home from work and we go out again tonight. Since I have an extra day in Istanbul...i think tomorrow I may take the boat ride in the Bosphorous...it is supposed to be very interesting and allows you to go to Asia Turkey...I probablly will use tomorrow also to repack, regroup, rest a little. I have to pace myself since I'm on the road for 3 weeks. WEll my friends and family. I hope all is well with you and that this email find you in good health and with peace. Until tomorrow..... With love, Keith |
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An incredible night and day! |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Tuesday, 07 November 2006 |
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After I last wrote, I went to meet Oktay. Very nice person...he is a mechanical engineer, 28 and lives with a flatmate who i call Charles because i can't even say his turkish name let alone spell it. They have a very nice flat near Taksim Square and are wonderful hosts. I was so tired...but they wanted to take me out. So we went out at 10 pm...and the streets and cafes were full! we had some typical meditarranean food, coffee, and talked, talked, talked...we were out until 2:30 AM talking about Bush, Politics, Iraq, Islam, Christianity, ATheism, Nitczhe, Camus, the purpose of life, etc. Very light topics as you can see...i thorougly enjoyed it. I am there first American Guest and they kept saying I should be an ambasador to prove that not all Americans are foolish! They had to go to work this morning...so i took the bus to Old Istanbul. These people here must have the strongest legs...Istanbul is the city of 7 hills....it is like San Francisco. I got seriously lost in Old Istanbul..to the point that i just went to a cafe to calm down. I couldn't not find my way out of the maze of streets. Finally, i found the Grand Bazzar which has 4500 stalls selling carpets, spices, trinket...it was overwhelming. From there I finally got to one of my main sites that has been on my list of places to see...The Aya Sofia...built in 532 AD by Emperor Justinian and was the largest Christian Church until the Vatican 1000 years later! But it was plundered by the muslims and they removed all the mosaics and made it into a mosque. now it serves as a museum. it was breathtaking. From there I went to the Blue Mosque..which was a great experience. i removed my shoes and it was my first time in a mosque. i even knelt down and contemplate for a while. I think my highlight was after that sitting in the park and the noon time prayers started over the loud speakers through the city....it was surreal to sit in front of the blue mosque listing to the islamic prayers broadcasting over the city! After that i walked to the hippodrome where the Roman had chariot races, Oktay recommended I go to the Basilica Cistern....it was great. It was something out of Phanotm of the Opera or Dracula...It is all underground, damp, wet, with water, candles and it was build by Contantine nearly 1500 years ago. I then took a walk along the Divan Yolu to Topkaki Palace. But it was getting late and the palace requires a lot of time...so i am saving that for tomorrow along with shopping. The sun started setting about 4 pm so i thought i better head back near Taksim Square where i stopped to have coffee and two waiters wanted to join me and ask questions of the States and to practice their English. That is the stuff i love...meeting people and talking. there is a bittersweetness in it...to meet someone, share a conversation, and know that you will never see them again. It is like a microcosm of life. So it is evening now...and I'm unwinding and waiting for Oktay and Charle to get home from work. They want to go out again tonight. Tomorrow I will wrap up the sites of Istanbul, do a little shopping and then move on.... |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Monday, 06 November 2006 |
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Hi all....i finally made it. It is 7 pm here in Istanbul....10 hours ahead of \los angeles. i am absolutely exhausted...23 hours 30 minutes of travel. I just love it when I arrive in a new city...it's scary, overwhelming, exciting, and gets my adrenaline going. After leaving Rome...we flew over Italy, adriatic sea, croatia, and bulgaria...the scenery was dotted with dozens of little villages and i couldn't help but think that in each home is a family, a story, hopes, sadness, etc. it's such a big world..and at the same time so small! i arrived in istanbul and had to get my visa...i didn't realize that i needed one. i then went through customs and my luggage was one of the first one off the carosel. i then had to find a phone card and call Oktay...he is one of my contacts in istanbul. i called him and he is getting off work and he told me to take a shuttle to Taksim Square and would meet me in an hour. I will stay with him for the next three nights. Once the shuttle got to Taksim I bought went on overload trying to cross the street...it's crazy...there are no rules...you just step out and hope for the best. it was neat driving through the city at night with all the mosques lit up. very beautiful...and the men are beautiful too! we were driving through istanbul...which is very crowded and i couldn't help but think "my God...I'm in a country that borders iraq"...it all seems so far and foreign to me. i do wish i spoke a little of the language as that is my biggest problem...i have no clue what is going on. but in someways that is good..it teaches me that when put into a situation you just adapt and go into survival mode. Well, take care. Tomorrow i will start hitting the streets with my camera. I know tomorrow i will see Aya Sofia and the Blue Mosque. It is so wonderful to stay connected to all of you back home. |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Sunday, 05 November 2006 |
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Well my friends and family...we are about to embark on our next journey! Welcome to the new people in this email group! It is 3 am and I am about to leave and catch the bus for LAX! I'm filled with excitement and a little bit of fear. This trip has been a bit overwhelming for me at times. I saw that I purchased my ticket last April. And with the war in Israel/Lebanon, ongoing sinus/dental infection, and other issues that happened this summer I was not sure I was even going to go on this journey. This is truly a new adventure...new language, religions, cultures, etc and will prove to be very interesting. As well as this will be a 3 week adventure (longer than my usual 2) As nerve wracking and overwhelming as it feels...I am so grateful to be going on this trip. There is always so much to learn and see, new people to meet, peoples paths that you cross never to see again, and of course all of the spiritual lessons I learn on these trips...like one day at a time, seeing the bigger picture of life, trusting in the universe, feelings of gratefulness and thanksgiving and feeling the interconnectedness of all people. This trip is especially meaningful, as I will be celebrating 10 years of sobriety on November 15th..What a way to celebrate. I am all packed (28 pounds in my backpack) and ready to live out of a backpack for 3 weeks. As most of you know I am a member of hospitality club http://hospitalityclub.org and will hopefully be relying on some of those people for accommodations and to meet for dinner or coffee. But it is all very tentative which adds to the thrill of it. As most of you know, I try to send out updates along the road with antidotes, historical notes, places I've visited and people I've encountered. This journey will go from LAX to New York to Rome and finally to Istanbul. After 2 days in Istanbul I will take a bus to Cannakale to see Gallipoli and Troy. From there I will push further down the Mediterranean coast to Izmir and Ephesus. I will then fly from Izmir to Amman, Jordan. The highlights of Jordan will be Petra and the Wadi Rum Desert/Bedouin experience. I will then head toward Israel (yes, by bus) stopping at Mt. Nebo where Moses is supposedly buried, Bethany where Jesus was baptized, and cross over the River Jordan and Dead Sea to Jerusalem. I will spend most of my last week in Jerusalem visiting the biblical sites before heading to Tel Aviv where I will begin my journey home. via Milan and Atlanta and finally back to LAX. So...until I get to Istanbul..take care.Peace,Keith |
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