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Salam Alikum from Amman, Jordan |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Wednesday, 15 November 2006 |
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That means....the peace of Allah be with you....my phrase for the day. Greetings from Amman Jordan..For your information I am 150 miles from the Iraqi Border and about 60 miles from Saudi Arabia...30 miles from Israel and 60 miles from Syria...smack dab in the middle of it all! The last 24 hours proved to be tiring but very good. After I wrote...I found the shuttle to the airport and ended up getting there way to early. The flight left on time and I got to Istanbul with 2 hours to do duty free shopping, have a smoke, and make my connecting flight at 11:40 pm. But then the real fun began...the plane was 1/2 hour late taking off...we flew over Cypress, Lebanon and Syria and began to land in Amman at 2:10 AM....moments before landing...the plane began to ascend at a very fast rate and we were going back up. We then flew for another 30 minutes and I had no idea what was going on. WE finally landed....and it turned out we were supposed to land at Queen Allyfah International Airport but ended up landing at Marca Jordanian Air force base. I still have no idea why! When we got of the plane onto the runway...there were military planes and Jordanian Army everywhere and we were escorted inside and waited for 40 minutes. I was a nervous wreck as 1) I didn't know what was going on or where I was and 2) Simon from Hospitality Club was so supposed to pick me up at the other airport 2 hours earlier. It was already 3:30 AM. I then entered customs and it was a fiasco...pushing, shoving, fingerprinted, questioned, etc. I then went to wait for my luggage...They even x-ray you and your luggage when you leave the airport. As I exited...I was so happy to see Simon waiting for me! He said he went to the other airport and they told him the flight had been diverted to the air force base. I do not know why and neither did he. What was to be a 2-hour flight turned out to be a 5-hour fiasco! I was a bit shaken by the whole ordeal. I hosted Simon and his girlfriend a while ago when they visited Los Angeles. They are wonderful people. We got home about 5 am. I only got a few hours of sleep. Then today was pretty low key...Simon made breakfast, we went for a walk to the largest mosque in Jordan and visited King Hussein’s Palace. It is an odd situation....his girlfriend Suzanne is a diplomat and works for the Jordanian Embassy. He is a househusband and cooks, cleans, etc. She got home from work and he had lunch ready for us. It is Thursday here...which is their Friday...they are off on Friday and Saturday. Their house is like a palace with marble floors, veranda overlooking the city! Private room and bath. I'm like a Prince. So now we are downtown and they are taking me to a hookah bar and then we have a party to attend tonight with Suzanne’s Embassy Friends. They have decided to take me all the way to Petra tomorrow and we are going to stay at a resort because she gets a diplomats discount so it will be dirt-cheap. And I will have them with me to help translate and not have to take a bus! Thank God for them! It feels very odd to be in Jordan...it truly is a world away. Though I am shocked at the number of American Business here. Simon taught me a few Arabic phrases to get by and am very grateful they are here for me as this leg of the journey would be a bit overwhelming for me. Well, I guess that is it for now. I hope all is well with you. I may not be able to check emails for the next day or two, as I will be in Petra for two days. Keith |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Tuesday, 14 November 2006 |
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Hello all...well this will be my last email from Turkey. Last night Elyim picked me up and we went to a Belly Dance Show which was very exotic and a lot of fun. Then they had regular Turkish dancing after. Everyone was so friendly to me...though I could not communicate with anyone. Elyim said they wanted me to get up and dance so I obliged and they were clapping and cheering and very happy that I participated and didn’t act too reserved. It was a lot of fun. I got home about 1 am. I slept in a bit late today because check out time was at noon and my flight does not leave until 9 pm. I woke up, had breakfast, watched some Turkish TV, and packed. While packing I realized I lost my sunglasses somewhere yesterday....they were only target cheapies but if I don’t have sunglasses I get a raging headache. So Ý used this as an excuse to go back to the bazaar. I guess it is like Alcohol....it gets me all nervous and upset...but there is something addictive and exotic about the bazaar that gets my adrenaline going. I was able to negotiate a price of 5 dollars for a pair of Nike counterfeit glasses. After a while the madness of the bazaar got on my nerves and Ý went to find a place to eat. I don’t even know what to order so I just order the set lunch menu...which was excellent and only 4 dollars. As most of you know...Ý have a tendency to get anxious and worry (needlessly). Ý started worrying about my flight tonight...how do Ý get to the airport? Do I have enough Liras for the rest of the day? How do I know the right bus? How do I know when to get off the bus? Are there any departure taxes? (Ý have gotten to the airport before and then they charge you a 40 tax just to leave). Will there be problems in Customs? Will there be problems in immigration in Amman? I don’t want to take more money out of the ATM but I don’t want to get caught off guard. Plus this is my first time flying internationally from another country! I Found the Turkish airline office and they answered my questions...but I wont feel calm until I get through customs in Jordan. So...if all goes well...I fly from Izmir to Istanbul at 9 pm. Then board a plane from Istanbul to Jordan at 11:40 pm and fly over Syria and Lebanon and land in Amman Jordan at 2 am...A few weeks ago I hosted a couple from Jordan on their visit to LA...Simon said he would pick me up at the airport and I would stay with them. But sometimes these things fall through! So we shall see. I am anxious to get onto the next leg of my journey...but I also feel a little sad to leave Turkey. IT has gone by so fast and was such a wonderful destination. I hope that all is well with you. I will do my best to email tomorrow night from Jordan...but I can’t guarantee it, as I don’t know what the Arabic keyboards will be like and such. Take care. Göle Göle (Turkish for goodbye)Keith |
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Last Updated ( Friday, 29 December 2006 )
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Monday, 13 November 2006 |
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After writing last night I gave into corporate America and went to mc Donald’s. After all the difficulties yesterday I wanted something familiar. I prefer to contribute to the local economy but couldn’t deal with it anymore. Though...I did not have a Big Mac.....I had a McTurk....essentially a Big Mac on a pita flat bread with Turkish Sauce. Today was a crown day! I woke up and had my little breakfast and then went to catch my tour. The tour holds up to 9 people....I was the only one! I got a private tour with the most awesome guy. His name was Elyim....very nice and we hit it off because his university studies were in archaeology and religious studies. Our first stop was the tomb of the apostle John. He lived in Ephesus and they tried to kill him twice but failed so they sent him to the island of Patmos where he wrote his book of John and Revelations He then returned to Ephesus and died and Constantine had a church built there. From there we went to the home of Virgin Mary and where she died. There is no proof of this but is based on scripture and some other ancient writings. There was fire there in Sept and it burned all the way up to the house and stopped. There is also a spring underneath which people feel is holy water. I got my Old Catholic feelings going and I even lit a candle and dipped my hands in the holy water. Apparently she lived there the last 11 years of her life with St. John. Pope John Paul declared it a pilgrimage site. After we went to Ephesus...it was everything I had hoped and more. Elyim explained how the city was founded. It had 250,000 people at its height and was the capitol of Roman Asia at that time. Of course the most famous thing there is the library, which was the 3rd largest at that time. It was surreal to stand there amongst those pillars that I had seen and dreamed about for so long. I felt so grateful to have this moment. We then saw the Amphitheater which held 25,000 people...it was very impressive and Elyim explained that is where Paul preached to the Ephesians before being jailed. If you ever get to Turkey...you must see Ephesus....by far the best ruins ý have seen...better than in Italy! After that Elyim took me to lunch which was part of the tour...it was a Turkish buffet. Very good. I asked him a lot of questions and particularly about Islam. He was raised Islamic but no longer practices. In fact he has no religious beliefs but enjoys studying religious history. Since there was no one else on the tour...he took me to a village out of the way to see how the local people make ceramic tiles with Islamic designs... I bought a few. He then took me to show me how the locals made Turkish rugs and leather goods...both local artisan crafts for the economy. We then went out for Turkish Tea ..very good....and Turkish Coffee very thick! We talked and talked about Religion history archaeology culture. Ý told him about my walk through that neighborhood yesterday and he said I was crazy...Brave heart! He cautioned me about going to Bethlehem and said that could be dangerous. Anyway we hit it off so well..we are meeting tonight so he can take me to an authentic Turkish Belly Dance Show! This is my last night in turkey...tomorrow I have free until the afternoon and need to figure out how to get to the airport. I fly out of Izmir to Istanbul and then arrive in Amman Jordan at 2 AM!!!! Ý am 1 day shy of being half way through this trip and am 15 dollars over budget....not too bad considering unexpected things. I will try to send out a quick email tomorrow before I leave but I may not be able to write until I get to Jordan and I have no idea what the situation will be there. I've learned three Turkish words...of little use since tomorrow I will have to learn some Arabic fast! IKeith
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Last Updated ( Friday, 29 December 2006 )
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Sunday, 12 November 2006 |
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First my apologies for the i & y fiasco...the keyboard is different and has extra Turkish letters. I hope this one comes out a bit better...though it will take me a while to write it. Well the last 24 hours have been rather exhausting. Let me first start by nothing bad happened...i am just a bit frazzled and overwhelmed...but it is all good because this is the experience I wanted! though today I feared I may have bit off more than I can chew! For 24 hours now I have been playing charades....I really thought more people would speak English. I tried to go to bed early but couldn’t fall asleep. I woke up about 7 today and had breakfast at the hotel..olives hard boil egg cheese bread and coffee. At 9 I ventured out to find a trip to Ephesus tomorrow as that is a highlight of where I want to go. I went to tourist place after place and no one spoke English. After an hour I finally found a place that offered English Ephesus tours. Once ý got that all squared away I walked along the boardwalk and ended up in a bazaar...it was very interesting to see all the spices fish fruit but then I ended up in a super crowded bazaar where everyone was yelling and screaming Turkish it was so loud and overwhelming and masses of merchants running up to me you want leather you want rug you want jeans. I always though Venice Italy was the most confusing city but I got hopelessly lost several times today and the language barrier made it all the more difficult to get help. I was trying to find the ancient Agora and ended up in some small back alleys that were so crowded with people and cars trying to get buy and mopeds and bikes on the sidewalk ý felt like I was going to get crushed. Please don’t worry about me getting caught up in some terrorist plot....the most dangerous thing here is the traffic. I was pushed so hard up against the wall my shirt got caught on a nail and ripped. I quickly became agitated from the pushing shoving horn honking screaming and yelling... after wandering around I finally found the agora. This was the center of the city when it was called Smyrna..It was built by the Greeks but destroyed in 187 B.C. by earthquake and rebuilt by emperor Marcus Aurelius. I was the only one there and I was walking around and some security guard started yelling at me in Turkish. I walked the other way and he left me alone. I still don’t know what I did wrong. I did learn today that izmir/smyrna is where Homer was born and has been here for 5000 years also 3 of the 7 churches mentioned in the bible are here. After the Agora I took a cab to the kadefekale a castle at the top of the mountain built in 4th century B.C. by Alexander the Great...it is way off the beaten path and very few tourist go. There were old Turkish women using knitting kilns. The view of the city was breathtaking up there. I decided I would walk back since it was all downhill....this did not prove to be a wise move. It was the most meandering path of streets and stairs I have ever encountered. Also it was obvious not many fair skinned people traveled this way because I got many stares from children pointing at me. Furthermore this area all of the women were dressed in traditional Muslim attire...it was smelly seedy and like a slum. I really have not been that nervous before in any of my adventures plus the sun was setting. I finally made it back down to the city and come to find out the short cut I took was through the most dangerous part of the city. Thankfully nothing happened. Now that it is over and I made it safe...I can say it was exciting!! I then found a place to eat and now ý am trying to unwind. I feel like a handicapped person....I have to point and physically act out what I want or need....food, the check, coffee, an ashtray, etc. It has given me a new appreciation for people who have any kind of handicap...blind deaf don’t speak English mute....I hope that this will teach me more patience when I encounter people that get on my nerves. So...tomorrow should be a bit easier...ý leave at 10 with an organized English speaking tour to Ephesus The Tomb of St. John...and the home and death place of Virgin Mary. Wednesday will prove to be my next challenge of getting to the airport here and get to Amman Jordan! As difficult as it is at times....I love it...its like and addiction and I am already thinking about where to go next! Perhaps one of you will want to join me! Take care...and I hope not to many i,s are y,s! With love and peace Keith |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Saturday, 11 November 2006 |
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Greetings from Izmir, Turkey. I apologize for the numerous typos on this email. It took me 20 minutes to figure out how to log on because the keyboard is in Turkish and no one here speaks English and I speak no Turkish. After I wrote last night I was rather tired and went to bed early about 10 and slept until 6. This morning I had breakfast and then got on the bus for Troy!! Absolutely fascinating..It was hard to believe that I was actually at troy...to be honest until I made my plans I thought Troy was in Greece! We saw the huge wooden horse. the Trojan horse and I even climbed to the top. The tour guide was great and explained all about Helen of Troy Paris Aphrodite Zeus and all the legends. Troy was around since 3000 BC until 500 ad but there were 9 cities of troy rebuilt over the other ones. We saw where Hektor and Achilles had their final battle and where the Phoenicians and other cultures had battles. There was so much history it was hard to keep track of...most people think of troy as Greco roman but I learned a lot about Mesopotamia the Hittites and that the Turks were originally Anatolia from central Asia..They are closely related to Uzbekistan and Pakistan but look different because Turks mixed with so many races and cultures. I thoroughly enjoyed this. This is also where homers Iliad and odyssey took place...which I read in college but didn’t really pay attention to it. Now I want to learn more about the history I then got back to cannakale and got bus to Izmir...this is where the difficulties began. The bus ride was a long winding 6 hours along the Aegean Sea. No one spoke English and I didn’t know what was going on. I didn’t even know when to get off the bus. Finally I got to Izmir and my hospitality club plans did not work out. I wandered around the bus station asking do you speak English? Do you speak English? And no one did. I went to a taxi driver and said Centrum so he took me to the city center and I wandered around looking for a place to stay. It was dark and I had no idea where I was or where I was going. I finally found a place called hotel oba and it was 20 a night but it includes breakfast and it is a private room with private bath and hot water...at that point Ithought...I just need to find a place and regroup and I am not going to quibble over a few dollars the room is very nice. but the people that own it speak no english..So I roamed the dark streets of Izmir looking for cafe. It is rather scary in this city...it is not like Istanbul...much more conservative and not a big visitor stop. Though...as difficult as all this was it does always make me feel proud that no matter where I am at. I have good survival skills and sometimes life is just an adventure where there is no plan there is no sure thing and you just have to wing it! So now I will find a place to eat grab some goodies and head back to my room until the sun rises and I feel safer on the street and ý figure out how I will get to Ephesus from here. I may stay here an extra night to regroup repack etc. By the way...I am now officially in the Asian Continent...so I have now been to four continents and 21 countries! |
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