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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Thursday, 23 November 2006 |
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Hello all....the sun is setting in Israel as I write this....this is my last night here. It is Friday evening and the Sabbath is beginning. Nearly everything is closed down and the streets seem so empty. It's been an interesting and emotional last day.....Tel Aviv really has nothing in the way of tourist site seeing stuff so most of the interesting stuff has come from happening and people...as is usually the case even when you are at a tourist site. For all those worry warts, I found out that my hostel was a block away from the US Embassy. Last night I walked over there to see it and see if I could go in. One of the US military guards said it was closed and I asked why..and he said "Because it is thanksgiving" which I had totally forgot about. I talked with the military guy and he said that all the officials were off and that only military was there on guard. We struck up a conversation and he invited me to join some of the military for Thanksgiving Dinner...which was not traditional...it consisted of Pizzas and listening to American Rock Music. But it was nice to have a "thanksgiving dinner" with some other Americans. They were explaining to me about their tours of service...some had been in Iraq while others had just been stationed at the US Embassy. I got back to my hostel and met Andres, a Columbian who was studying Middle East Political Science at the University of Virginia and was touring Israel and Egypt. We went out last night and he gave me a crash course in Middle East History and Politics. This was his first trip abroad. I then called it a night. This morning I woke up a bit late and then went for a walk. I stopped at a run down cafe, smoke filled, playing some sort of Hebrew Folk Music. I met two Israelis and had lunch with them. They were secular Jews but very anti-Palestinian and one explained how his brother had been blown up in the Gaza Strip. These two Israelis were very inquisitive about the US and very philosophical...discussing fate, God, luck, the Wrath of God, what is justice...They were both very sad people. I then went to the beach with my Walkman and I became very emotional looking at the ocean and listening to my music. I think perhaps because I have been so busy each day running around I had not yet had time to think about all that I saw. I felt so very overcome with gratitude. I sat there thinking about the last three weeks realizing I had stayed in the homes of Turkish Atheists, Jordanian Diplomats, Gay Jews, I had danced to Madonna with Palestinians, I had broke bread with US Troops, Bedouins, PLO members, Israeli supporters. I had been to the birthplace of three great religions, and visited the lowest place on earth; I had been in cathedrals, mosques and synagogues. I had seen battlefields dating back to Troy and the countless mute graves of Gallipoli, I had crossed into the West Bank and pass the wall of Bethlehem, I walked the final street of Jesus Christ and visited Ancient Greek Mythology.....it is overwhelming when I think of all of it and I am so grateful and joyful that I could experience this. It makes tears well up in my eyes as I write this. For the first time in a long time...I missed my dad today. I wish I could tell him about all this. I know he would have thought I was crazy..but inside he would have been proud. As I thought about this, I felt like..."it's ok...he's here with me...smiling down on me" I've traveled a lot...but I have to say this trip has been my crown Jewel and I am not sure how I can top this trip. I can't say it was the best trip I've been on because each trip is special and different in its own way...but I will say this trip probably opened my eyes the most and let me experience the most life has to offer. It's been a thought provoking day as I reflect back upon all the people I met on this trip...the fact that all of them were so different..and yet so similar...the fact that I will probably never see one of them again and yet for a day or even an hour..they touched my life in some way. In spite of all the perils of the middle east and the differences between people...this trip has reconfirmed my notion that the basic essence of humans is goodness and kindness. It has also reconvicted my belief in the interconnectedness of all people and I wish that more people would realize this...perhaps the result would be less war, poverty, hatred, pollution. I only hope that my interactions with people in the Middle East may have influenced them in some small way. I hope that some of my emails back to you folks...may have been influential in some way. I have to head to the airport at midnight as it takes 3 hours to just check in here. This is the part of the trip...I love/hate. I am happy to be coming home...to see my mom and to see my kitties and to see some of you real soon. But The flight home always seems so much longer...I'm tired, I get agitated, and I just want to get home...I fly from Tel Aviv to Milan to Atlanta to LAX...and the whole ordeal will take 30 hours...with layovers, luggage, customs, etc. I have 5 hours in Atlanta...at least you can smoke in that airport and use internet! Plus it is hard to face Monday...back to work, back to the routine...laundry, groceries, etc. and jet lag. After being on the go and on such a spiritual and emotional high...I always find when I come back to fall into a let down..a sort of post vacation blues...but this time I did something to solve that and booked a short cruise over the MLK Weekend with my mom...so that softens the blow of coming back to reality. And if I feel sad...I just remind myself of this wonderful trip, my wonderful people I was able to email, being sober for 10 years, and the upcoming holiday season :) So with that my friends.....thank you for "traveling with me". I will see some of you Saturday night, some Sunday, some Monday...and some...when our paths will meet again :) Take care and peace be with all of you.With love and peace,Keith |
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Happy Thanksgiving from Tel Aviv |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Wednesday, 22 November 2006 |
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It's hard to believe it is Thanksgiving as it is just another work day here! I hope that you all have a nice holiday weekend and I'm thankful for all of you for touching my life somehow and for letting me take you on this journey. Well, I am in Tel Aviv....it is a "transition" back to the States.....They wear shorts and t-shirts here, mini skirts, Dolce and Gabana and when there is a price on an item you want to buy...that is the price..no haggling! Tel Aviv is very secular and western and is on the beaches of the Mediterranean. Thankfully I brought one pair of shorts which I can finally break out. On the other hand....Tel Aviv is a new city and there are no major historical things to see around here. I woke up this morning and walked about a mile to the bus station....this is the part of the trip I hate..Transitioning to another city. My backpack weighs a ton with all the stuff I have bought. So it was difficult getting to the bus station. Then when I get there...there is the strict security check. Most people have a bag or a purse..but I have this huge back pack with 15 compartments and it takes forever for security to check each nook and cranny and the people behind me get upset. I found the bus to Tel Aviv and it took about 45 minutes to get there. My hospitality club person did not work out...he had emailed me that he had the flu but I could call him when I got to Tel Aviv and he would help me. Unfortunately I did not write down his number. the station in Tel Aviv is 7 stories high and I couldn’t' find out how to get out of the building. I always hate arriving in a new city as I don't know where I am, where to go, how to get there. So I figured I would pick a hostel and have a cab drive me there. I got to the hostel and a single room was $40 but I could stay in a dorm for $9. Since it is the end of my trip and money is dwindling I opted for the dorm...they are nice..hold 6 people...I've stayed in ones a lot worse..plus it serves breakfast and is in a great location 2 blocks from the beach and in the heart of the nightlife. So I can't complain. After relaxing for a bit..I went and walked about the city for a bit to find out where stuff was and then had lunch. I'm going to take a nap for a while and then this evening....probably go to a club or something. Tomorrow is my last day and there really isn't anything here to see (historically, biblically, etc)...so if the weather is nice I will spend my last day at the beach..laying out and reading. Though I may go to the Yitzhak Rabin Center. Which by the way, I met a man yesterday from Florida...who left Israel 55 years ago and this was his first time returning as he wanted to go to Masada. He fought in the 1948 War of Independence for Israel and was telling me stories of what life was like pre 1948 Palestine. Very interesting. Also of interest...on of the people in my hostel is from Venice California! It's a small world after all..... I hope that this note finds you happy, healthy, and enjoying your holiday. Happy Thanksgiving!PeaceKeith |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Tuesday, 21 November 2006 |
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Well, last night after I wrote I rested from about 6 pm until 9 and drifted off to sleep reading my Steinbeck novel. It was so nice to sleep for 10 hours! This morning I met my tour bus which held 50 but only had about 12 people on it. It was a fascinating trip today. We left Jerusalem and again headed to the west bank ...though security in this area wasn't as tight. We then drove through Jericho and on down to the Dead Sea. We stopped momentarily at Qumran where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found in like 1947. We meandered down the west coast of the Dead Sea toward Masada. Along the way we passed the supposed place of Sodom and Gomorrah. A lot of these place...including the crucifixion, nativity, prophets of the Old Testament, the test of Abraham are alleged sites. | They are not authenticated...but it is nice to see these sites that are so often talked about. In fact, there are two tombs of Jesus..The Protestant one in the garden and the Catholic one in the Church of the Sepulcher. Which is the right one...if either...who knows..but it is fascinating to learn all the history. Masada was great! I had known the stories for years and it was very moving to be there. They had an excellent movie about the history. After Romans conquered Jerusalem...900 Zealot Jews rebelled and escaped the mesa of Masada. 8,000 Roman Troops tried to capture the 900 Jews for 7 months. As the Romans finally got close...the Jews decided to kill each other off and the last one would commit suicide. In addition they burned all their provisions and food but left a plate of food out so that the Romans would know they didn't kill themselves off by starvation. Plus when the Romans would get into the walls there would be no food, no money, nothing for them to steal or take. There was an alleged speech by the leader of the Zealots who ended by saying "It is better to die Free...than to live in slavery". I've always been fascinated with this story and it was very moving for me to visit it. I can see why it is so strong in the Israeli Psyche. After touring around the top of Masada (and yes, I cheated...I took the tram I did not walk this)...we went to the Dead Sea at En Gadi National Park. The ocean is 3.2 % salt..but the Dead sea is 32% salt and nothing lives in it. Everything floats and it has a lot of bromide, magnesium, sodium.. I did jump in the water...any cuts and scrapes..burns like hell. When you get out of the water you are covered with salt/saline. Cleopatra used this as her private resort. It was beautiful scenery around the Dead Sea. We then drove back to Jerusalem where I decided I better do some shopping...I've picked up stuff along the way and I don't know how I am going to get all this back. Things are starting to wind down now...tomorrow I will head to my last stop..Tel Aviv for two days and I will be coming home Saturday morning...though I don't get home until very late Saturday. Tomorrow is Thanksgiving there....nothing over here...kind of sad not being home for the holiday...but was trying to get every last bit out of my three weeks! Take care my friends and family. Peace, Keith
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Oh Little Town of Bethlehem |
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Written by Keith Rhoades
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Monday, 20 November 2006 |
Well...the last 24 hours have been quite exciting....its amazing how much can happen and one can get done in 24 hours whne travelling. Being on the road for 3 weeks is a first for me...and I have to admit...I do like it over the 2 week trips. Well, after I last wrote....I went home for Gadi and Elyashiv to come home. They decided they wanted to go out with some of their friends and take me to Jerusalems only gay night club. However, they warned me that it does have occasional attacks by both Muslim groups and Orthodox Jewish Groups. I opted to go of course...What a great club and great people. They had a Disney Night Drag Show which was a hoot. I met a lot of great people there. I did not get home until 4 am. On the way home I decided to stop to get money out of the ATM...what happened next got me all worked up. The machine ate my card and did not give me any money! But there was nothing I could do until this morning. This morning I woke up after 4 hours of sleep obssesing about my ATM card and how I was goingto get money for the last few days. I got to the bank and only a few people spoke a little English. I explained my situation and they were able to get the card out of the machine for me. I was quite relieve. After settling down from that....I decided to venture to Bethlehem. Now several people warned me not to go...and I can see now why they gave me those warning. Bethlehem is in the West Bank Palestinain Authority. I knew that Jewish people would not go there...so I ventured into the Arabic part of Jerusalem and found the bus to Bethlehem. I have to admit...I was very naive about the whole West Bank Issue.The bus takes you as far as the border and then you have to walk through a secure crossing. Bethlehem as well as the wEst BAnk are behind a huge armored wall...it is like the old Berlin Wall. As I crossed into the Bethlehm...I was greeted by graffiti saying "NO USA" "We are not terrorists" "USA=Money, Israel=Apartheid" "Free Palestine". I kid you not, there really were Palestian IDF with the black ski masks and shot guns running around. I was very nervous and very uneasy. I befriended a Palestinian whose name was Naif...the deal was he would show me around Bethlehem and insure my safety in exchange for $15.....Perhaps you may think I was foolish...but I took him up on the offer as I felt very unsafe and very unwelcomed there. In the end it turned out to be interesting...he informed me that hardly any tourists ever come there and pracitcally not an American in the last 5 years. He said the situation is very bad and the palestinian people are poor and hopeless. They are not allowed to leave without special permssion and are pretty much Prisoners within Bethlehem. He explained that yesterday there was a curfew in effect for looting and burning and many of the shops still had not reopened. I was definitely stared at and pointed at. Naif took me to Manger Square where I visited the church of the Nativity where Jesus was born...it is the old known church. He showed me Rachels Tomb and the Shepherds field. He asked if there was anything else I wanted to see...but I truly felt apprehensive andnervous with ski masked people running around and not a tourist in site and requested he escort me back to the crossing. I paid him $15 and made the journey back to the Israeli side. Naif said that in the last 5 years the situation has really deteriorated and is really very unsafe for me to be there. I felt very relieved to get back to Jerusalem. I then wanted to make arrangements for tomorrow activities so I took care of that and then went shopping and had a very late lunch. I think tonight...I will try to rest early as I have a long trip planned tomorrow to Masada, Dead Sea, Qumran, Ein Gedi National Park and the Judean Desert topped off with a mud bath and floating in the dead sea...the lowest place on earth (about 1200 feet below sea level) After it is all said and done I am very happy I went to Bethlehem...partly because I wanted to go for historical/spiritual reasons but it opened my eyes and better helped me understand the Palestinian point of view and what there life is like in the West Bank. |
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Last Updated ( Thursday, 28 December 2006 )
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